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 ADVANCED
White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace of Spades T 
Conqueror Worm TR 
Digital Watch T 
Field and Stream T 
Good Housekeeping T 
High Anxiety T 
High Tension T 
Jack of Hearts T 
Make or Break Flake T 
Nolina Crack T 
Perennial Favorite T 
Popular Mechanics T 
Quest for Fire T 
Scientific Americans T 
Sen Blen T 
Sharon Stone T 
Solar Flare T 
Stone Hinge T 
Wilted Flower Children T 
Unsorted Routes:

Jack of Hearts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Long and Janet Wilts, May 1977
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Mar 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: The start

Description 

100' or so down and left from Popular Mechanics. Start up a hand and fist crack to easier terrain and then the top of a pinnacle, step right across a void and into a thin crack and some flakes to the top of the pitch. Definitely worth doing if in the area and on good rock but not as classic as Popular Mechanics or Ace of Spades.

Protection 

Standard rack, a fairly long and varied pitch


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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2003

I climbed this route about 10 years ago and it really kicked my butt. I remember thinking at the time that it was more 5.10 than 5.9. perhpa I was having a bad day. Comments are encouraged.
By Josh Beck
Mar 14, 2003

Immediately after this climb I did Nolina Crack (10a) and Ace of Spades (9), and both felt a touch harder, so it seems reasonable to me to call this 5.9... A little insecure up high after stepping across the void into the chunky corner but no big deal.

josh
By Murf
Oct 17, 2003

Typical rack to #3 Camalot. If you continue high enough, there is a bolted rap anchor.

Start in the hand crack at the base of the lowest part of the main wall. Continue up the burly big hands crack, which eases towards the top. Continue through the offwidth above, and then step across a gap with less than perfect rock. The belay is on a ledge above. Rappel to the base of Popular Mechanics.
By namascar
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The intial crack is real good. A book example of vertical hands to fist cracks, on a corner. The rest of the climb is not so nice. I give it two stars just for the initial crack. It feels steep for a 5.9.
By Woody Stark
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I followed and lay-backed the lower crack. I'd never do that on lead ,though. We (Locker) broke it into two pitches. I led the second, and the choice is between the jam on the left and the face on the right. I took the face(5.9), error, error--scary, dangerous runout. The lower crack we both thought was harder than nine.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Now I have something to go on.....The hand crack at the start did indeed feel harder than 5.9. I give it the ambiguous 5.9+ because that rating means it can be pratcally anything out here at Jtree. Anything that is but 5.9 and down... The start ate me alive! But it was a challenge and really fun in an odd way............
By Drederek
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Eases quite a bit after the first 12 feet or it'd be 10a. 95' rap from the chains.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Start is steep, but you don't get better jams than those! Definitely 5.9, no way 5.10 if you know how to do steep cracks (its all about how to use your feet). Upper wide takes small gear, so don't bring anything larger than a #3.
By Scott Scharfenberg
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 12, 2014

Agree with Mark. Had an easier time with the burly-feeling start of this climb than the crux of Dummy's Delight, which is rated 5.9+. Though I felt this was one of the more committing climbs I've done so far.

Pretty sure I would've been quite scared on this route if I hadn't been in one of those perfectly-focused moments where you forget about sketchiness and just climb. That being said, in my opinion it's also one of the best routes I've ever climbed.

If you want to sew up the start you could bring three #3 C4's, otherwise two should suffice. Small gear up higher.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 29, 2014

1 star is very generous.