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Jack of Diamonds 
Open Book, The 
Roger's Romp 

Jack of Diamonds 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 733
Submitted By: Eliza Penick on Apr 23, 2009
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Rappelling down the face.

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Lower Maine Wall/East Buttress Trails Closed MORE INFO >>>


I top-roped this--fun 5.8 with no difficulty since I wasn't concerned with placing pieces.


In about the middle of the feature, a smoothish wall that stands out just a bit from the rock to its left. The Jack is the left-hand of the two obvious crack routes on this part of the wall.


Unless top-roping, the overhanging moves at the start require precise placements of small nuts to keep it safe. Gear to 3 inches, with emphasis on smaller stoppers & offset nuts. Rappel from bolts.

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