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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Jack and Diane 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Elison, Mark McLauchlan, Stephanie Hilwig
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 856
Submitted By: Mort on Nov 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Climber just above the crux (1st bolt) on Jack and...


Start the same as "Unknown 5.10a". This is the second route left of Jewel of the Mild. Step right into lieback flake. The crux is at the vertical arete or the first move into the lieback depending on how low you move right. This warmup has actual holds!


Start same as "Unknown 5.10a". It is the second route left of Jewel of the Mild. It shares an anchor with the two routes to the left.


5 bolts.

Photos of Jack and Diane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me nearing the second tricky part of Jack and Dian...
Me nearing the second tricky part of Jack and Dian...

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By Ben D.
From: Colorado
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really fun climb that felt harder than "Unknown 10a" to the left of it. While I think the original route was intended to be a left-leaning lieback in the lower flake, you can also climb this as a right-leaning "crack climb" with perfect foot and hand jams. If you climb it this way, you can sew up the flake with some #0.75-2 Camalots after clipping the first bolt. Also, there is a variation to the start where you climb it directly under the first bolt with some awkward underclings and sidepulls to get started (avoiding the "Unknown 10a" start). If you start it this way, it probably goes at 5.10b.

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