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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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J'accuse 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and Patrick Cordier, 1971. FFA: Scott Stewart and Rich Romano, 1973.
Page Views: 966
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A view from the ground.
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A slightly harder companion to Never Never Land.

Climb a very thin face with very polished feet plugging in very tiny gear where you can and clipping the only bolt on the route (crux; don't fall before clipping!), continue up more very thin climbing until the holds get bigger and the angle eases off.


Location 

Located about 8-10 minutes from the East Trapps connector trail, just right of Never Never Land.


Protection 

Tiny cams, nuts and one bolt. Ring bolts at the top.



Photos of J'accuse Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Kaplan just above the bolt
Tom Kaplan just above the bolt
Lucander protecting the first moves on J'accuse.
Lucander protecting the first moves on J'accuse.
Comments on J'accuse Add Comment
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By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

The Grey Guide suggests that there is a piton somewhere above the bolt. As of this past weekend 10/23/2010 there was none to be found. There are some challenging moves above the bolt (including several with no hands) until you get to the next spot where you can place any gear which makes the first 30 feet of the route very intimidating. Be sure to get gear before the bolt too.

By JSH
Administrator
Nov 8, 2010

Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...

Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)!

By David Stowe
Nov 8, 2010

I have not climbed any of those routes on that wall this season, however there always was a tree directly behind the route. You can stem your way up a bit and sling the tree. This would keep you off of the ground should be fall before the bolt. I did this the first time that I led the route years back, but have not used the tree on subsequent leads. The route is a bit heady, but it is one of those where you won't get pumped, you just need to take your time and as long as you are climbing at that level the route should go without any trouble. That being said, since I have had kids I am far less willing to take risks like that with no pro right off the deck. If you are just getting into 5.10 then this certainly not one to try leading.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

I always shimmy up the skinny tree and sling it, then come down and do the climb. There used to be a piton up and right from the bolt in the grass tufts. This piton had a crack down the middle, lots of people clipped it but few noticed the fracture. This section takes an assortment of .4-.75 cams.

By Indigo Dragon
From: Fairfield, CT
Oct 13, 2013

Not as good as NNL but still a great climb and worth doing. The start is sketchy, I tried to commit w/o the tree but ended up slinging it and back-cleaning. The last 30 feet are fun but I think a better option is to traverse left to NNL and finish on that, way more exciting.