||Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R [details]|
|FA: ||Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981|
|Season: ||Fall, Winter|
|Page Views: ||4,652|
|Submitted By: ||Geir on Oct 12, 2009|
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A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.
Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.
Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).
Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.
Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.
Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.
Starts approx 50' left of Abracadaver where a large boulder leans against the face.
Doubles through 3.5", one 4". Make sure to include some small stoppers and ball nuts. Depending on how you do pitch 3 you may find these helpful.
By Paul Davidson
Oct 13, 2009
I believe RR gave this the name JabberwockY.
One of you tukson boyz should ask him.
By Eric D
Oct 16, 2009
I thought so too but the Kerry guide did not have a Y. I'll change it for now and ask Ray next time I see him.
By Eric D
Jul 14, 2010
Yup, Ray said with the y.