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 ADVANCED
Rockfellow Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadaver T 
Good Zzzzzs T 
Inner Passage T 
Jabberwocky T,S 
Knead Me 
Labyrinth, The T 
Lumpy Unmentionables T 
Sensory Desuetude T 
Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 
Unknown S 
Unknown (NE Face) T 
Unknown (S Face) T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Jabberwocky 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jim Waugh and Ray Ringle, 1981
Season: Fall, Winter
Page Views: 3,707
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 12, 2009

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Pitches 1 and 2

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A classic old-school route with beautiful climbing and some truly challenging sections. For those who aspire to climb some of the best hardman climbs in the Stronghold, this one should not be missed.

Starts approximately 50' left of Abracadaver beneath a boulder leaning against the wall.

Pitch 1 (5.12, 80'): Climb up underneath the boulder on to a slab. Six bolts protect moves leading up and right along a weakness into a corner. The crux after the final bolt (5.12).

Pitch 2 (5.11+, 85'): Excellent climbing up a crack in the a left facing corner. A combination of crack climbing, jams, and stemming make this a fabulous pitch. Pass a bulge in the crack on its left. Clip a bolt, traverse directly right, and continue up chickenheads to the anchors.

Pitch 3 (5.10R, 150'): Run out the bulgy, nearly unprotected slab (mostly easy, a move or two of 5.9) to a corner with crack. A small nut and a #2 bullnut can offer some marginal protection here if you happen to find the placements. A fall would be bad. Gain the well-protected but somewhat grainy crack and work up to a point where a thin crack diagonals up and right for about 7 feet. Follow it to the gorgeous crack and flake above. Belay with gear.

Pitch 4 (5.7, 160'): Climb the stunning low-angle flake/crack to the summit and a two bolt anchor.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.

Location 

Starts approx 50' left of Abracadaver where a large boulder leans against the face.

Protection 

Doubles through 3.5", one 4". Make sure to include some small stoppers and ball nuts. Depending on how you do pitch 3 you may find these helpful.


Photos of Jabberwocky Slideshow Add Photo
1st pitch
1st pitch
Jabberwocky bite
Jabberwocky bite
Andy just before the crux.  To be continued . . . ...
Andy just before the crux. To be continued . . . ...
Pitch 3
Pitch 3

Comments on Jabberwocky Add Comment
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By Paul Davidson
Oct 13, 2009

I believe RR gave this the name JabberwockY.
One of you tukson boyz should ask him.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Oct 16, 2009

I thought so too but the Kerry guide did not have a Y. I'll change it for now and ask Ray next time I see him.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jul 14, 2010

Yup, Ray said with the y.