|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]|
|FA:||Andy Patterson, Bernd Zeugswetter|
|Season:||Several grades harder when hot|
|Submitted By:||andy patterson on May 11, 2012|
|Comments on Jabberwocky||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
May 14, 2012
Nick and I gave this guy a whirl today on TR. I feel like it might deserve the award for most devious and interesting face climbing in SB at least that I have come across so far (the fact that it had been baking in the sun for a couple hours definitely played a part in this, however). Felt like it could warrant a slight grade bump over Broken Mirror (crux was a couple moves longer, thinner and felt a bit more sustained) but maybe with cooler temps it'll feel a bit different.
Either way congrats guys...definitely a couple gems you found there.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 14, 2012
Funny, I said the same thing to Bernd after I led it. There's some specific beta that makes things slightly easier, but the way I initially climbed it things felt like solid 12b. Also, definitely wait till sunset next time. I've made the mistake of leading it in the sun and I took some good grease-off whips.
I also agree that the crux is a tad longer than Broken Mirror.
I'm so psyched that you and Nick have been getting on this line! More people need to climb it.