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 ADVANCED
Jabba Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Enter) Sandman S 
Better Eat Yo Wheaties  S 
Blue Light Special T 
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 
Dune  S 
Face To Nowhere T 
For Better Or For Worse S 
I Need a Batholith S 
In Mesopotamia T 
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 
Odale'! S 
Offwidth Crack T 
Steve Likes Offwidth T 
Three Open Books T 

Jabba Buttress  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on May 27, 2006
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Description 

Jabba Buttress contains a nice mixture of lines. I Need A Shower and Jabba the Hutt Levitates are fun corner/crack climbs that shouldn't be missed. There are also several good sport routes that range from 5.10 - 5.13.


THERE IS A FIXED STATIC LINE IN THIS AREA THAT IS USED BY THE LOCAL SAR AND CLIMBING COMMUNITY. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE IT! IT IS EASILY FLICKED OUT OF THE WAY WHEN CLIMBING. THANKS.

Getting There 

Follow the approach trail to the Watch Crystal, go right and look for the left-facing corner of Jabba the Hutt Levitates.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jabba Buttress:
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
(Enter) Sandman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Steve Likes Offwidth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Three Open Books   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
In Mesopotamia   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
I Need a Batholith   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Jabba the Hutt Levitates   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dune    5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Odale'!   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
For Better Or For Worse   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Blue Light Special   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Jabba Buttress

Featured Route For Jabba Buttress
The route nearing the awkward mantle, I Need A Shower to the left.

(Enter) Sandman 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Durango : ... : Jabba Buttress
This is a great route on very soft but highly featured sandstone - it is the sandstone version of tufa climbing. The cruxes are at the first bolt and another is at the fun mantle midway....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Jabba Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Apr 23, 2010
Does anyone (Tim?) know about the tips crack with a bolt at the bottom of it? It sits on the west face right of "Face to Nowhere" and left of "I Need a Shower". The guidebook shows the bolt on the topo but makes no mention of a route. Looks hard...has it gone free?
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Apr 25, 2010
That crack is another futuristic East A prize. My friend Joel placed the bolts (on rappel, I believe). I don't think they put all that much effort into it at that time though. I have tried it, but also didn't put in much time on it. The move by the bottom bolt is really hard then the climbing gets easier and awesome, then really hard again. It's probly not as hard as some of the other things they bolted that were way over their heads. It is something I would really like to work on. You should check it out, give me a call if you need a belay.
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Sep 10, 2010
Hey, Tim, I'm headed up there today to climb on the Watch Crystal, and I'll take a closer look at it. I'm definitely down to work it and maybe some other new hard lines. Let me know if you want to collaborate.