By Gregory D From La Verne May 11, 2011
| Looking for some suggestions of areas/routes that are fully bolted and easy (read 5.9 leader) with bolted anchors. Does this animal exist or should I just head to the high desert? |  FLAG |
By plantmandan From Brighton, Co May 11, 2011
| There are bolted routes at J Tree, but very few of them have bolted anchors. Generally, if a crag has a walk off option you will not find bolted anchors. In addition, even the "easy" bolted routes at J Tree tend to be run out and exposed. If you're looking for some good sport climbing, you'd probably be better off going to New Jack City. |  FLAG |
By John Wilder From Las Vegas, NV May 11, 2011
| Gregory D wrote: Looking for some suggestions of areas/routes that are fully bolted and easy (read 5.9 leader) with bolted anchors. Does this animal exist or should I just head to the high desert? not in jtree. not really, anyway. Jtree is, by and large, a traditional climbing area and has been kept that way (with a few exceptions) for as long as i can remember. |  FLAG |
By C Miller Administrator May 11, 2011
| Here's a list of over 100 sport routes in Joshua Tree (rated 5.9 and under) - www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeF>>> There are lots of sport routes despite the standard line that "there are no sport routes in Josha Tree". You'll probably be better off at the Apple Valley Crags or NJC given the better concentration of sport routes at the given grade (5.9 and under) and proximity to one another. |  FLAG |
By Cory From Boise, ID May 11, 2011
| There are a couple fun sport bolted routes (5.6 and 5.8) that are classic and super fun on Headstone near Ryan Campground. |  FLAG |
By Choss Chasin' From Lawndale, CA May 11, 2011
| SW corner, the 5.8 next to it (both on Headstone) Double Dip (little runout), Stitcher Quits (I think that's the name, its next to Double Dip). R.M.L., while you do that you can TR the 10c to the right of it with minimal slings and like 1 or two cams. There is another slabby route in Echo cove that I can't remember the name of. It's across the way from Big Moe. The best area I can think of though is Indian Palisades Corridor in Indian Cove. Off of two sets of bolts you can climb about 8 routes ranging from the easiest 5.6 in J-tree to a very cool 10.C with some awesome mantle moves. Good luck and buy a trad rack =) |  FLAG |
By toddgordon From Joshua Tree, California May 11, 2011
| There are hundreds of modern bolted sport climbs in Joshua Tree with 3/8" bolts, sport anchors, and no run-outs.....They are just spread out over 1000 sq. miles....and not all in one place like New Jack, High Desert, Owens Gorge, or Shelf......(Someone needs to do a current sport guide to Joshua Tree....)...Check out Chris Miller's list above;....and that is only 5.9 and under;..... |  FLAG |
By Kevin Craig May 12, 2011
| Choss Chasin' wrote: There is another slabby route in Echo cove that I can't remember the name of. It's across the way from Big Moe. Fun Stuff? |  FLAG |
By Choss Chasin' From Lawndale, CA May 12, 2011
| Kevin Craig wrote: Fun Stuff? No I think it is just to the right of Fun Stuff. Fun Stuff only has 2 bolts in beginning then is trad to the top. Right? |  FLAG |
By Kevin Craig May 13, 2011
| Choss Chasin' wrote: No I think it is just to the right of Fun Stuff. Fun Stuff only has 2 bolts in beginning then is trad to the top. Right? Ah right. Maybe Stichter Quits? Has a bolted anchor, but not exactly a sport climb with 4 bolts in 100+ feet. |  FLAG |
By Choss Chasin' From Lawndale, CA May 13, 2011
| Kevin Craig wrote: Ah right. Maybe Stichter Quits? Has a bolted anchor, but not exactly a sport climb with 4 bolts in 100+ feet. Okay I Just looked it up. Its The Sound of One Shoe Tapping. |  FLAG |
By Simon Hatfield From Los Angeles, CA May 30, 2011
| If you want a challenge, check out Loose Lady. Its a .10a, but very safely bolted, and excellent climbing. I haven't climbed Yasmine Bleeth or Dos Chi Chis, but they have a similar reputation. JT bolted routes are done on lead, so for anything easier than .10a, climbs tend to be friction slab and quite run out. Here are some good ones that require nothing but a set of quickdraws and have bolted anchors. Walk on the Wild side, 5.7+: 3 pitches, terrific, completely bolted, reducing the complexity of the multipitch, but is a serious and run out lead. Dazed and Confused is similar, but 5.9. DO NOT BLOW IT GOING TO THE FIRST BOLT. Sexy Grandma is right next to the parking lot, and although it has optional gear, you could get by without it. |  FLAG |
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