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J Tree bolted routes?



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By Gregory D
From La Verne
May 11, 2011
fun in the (twilight) sun

Looking for some suggestions of areas/routes that are fully bolted and easy (read 5.9 leader) with bolted anchors. Does this animal exist or should I just head to the high desert?


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By plantmandan
From Brighton, Co
May 11, 2011
J Tree after blizzard

There are bolted routes at J Tree, but very few of them have bolted anchors. Generally, if a crag has a walk off option you will not find bolted anchors.

In addition, even the "easy" bolted routes at J Tree tend to be run out and exposed.

If you're looking for some good sport climbing, you'd probably be better off going to New Jack City.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
May 11, 2011
Hiking some 5.fun in Squish.

Gregory D wrote:
Looking for some suggestions of areas/routes that are fully bolted and easy (read 5.9 leader) with bolted anchors. Does this animal exist or should I just head to the high desert?


not in jtree. not really, anyway.

Jtree is, by and large, a traditional climbing area and has been kept that way (with a few exceptions) for as long as i can remember.


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By C Miller
Administrator
May 11, 2011
Mr. Rex profile, Cabazon

Here's a list of over 100 sport routes in Joshua Tree (rated 5.9 and under) -

www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeF>>>

There are lots of sport routes despite the standard line that "there are no sport routes in Josha Tree".

You'll probably be better off at the Apple Valley Crags or NJC given the better concentration of sport routes at the given grade (5.9 and under) and proximity to one another.


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By CO_Michael
May 11, 2011
Mexico roadside rocks

There are few true sport climbs in Joshua Tree.

Some bolted climbs don't have bolted anchors.

Some bolted climbs are runout.

The new J Tree guide by Robert Miramontes will be a great guide for you to have. Buy is there are Nomads.

www.amazon.com/Joshua-Tree-Climbs-Robert-Miramontes/dp/09826>>>


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By Cory
From Boise, ID
May 11, 2011
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fun day in the Hills

There are a couple fun sport bolted routes (5.6 and 5.8) that are classic and super fun on Headstone near Ryan Campground.


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By Choss Chasin'
From Lawndale, CA
May 11, 2011
Black Mountain

SW corner, the 5.8 next to it (both on Headstone)

Double Dip (little runout), Stitcher Quits (I think that's the name, its next to Double Dip).

R.M.L., while you do that you can TR the 10c to the right of it with minimal slings and like 1 or two cams.

There is another slabby route in Echo cove that I can't remember the name of. It's across the way from Big Moe.

The best area I can think of though is Indian Palisades Corridor in Indian Cove. Off of two sets of bolts you can climb about 8 routes ranging from the easiest 5.6 in J-tree to a very cool 10.C with some awesome mantle moves.

Good luck and buy a trad rack =)


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By Richard Adler
From Bend, Oregon
May 11, 2011
Georgia and I

Outer Mongolia


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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
May 11, 2011

There are hundreds of modern bolted sport climbs in Joshua Tree with 3/8" bolts, sport anchors, and no run-outs.....They are just spread out over 1000 sq. miles....and not all in one place like New Jack, High Desert, Owens Gorge, or Shelf......(Someone needs to do a current sport guide to Joshua Tree....)...Check out Chris Miller's list above;....and that is only 5.9 and under;.....


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By Kevin Craig
May 12, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Choss Chasin' wrote:
There is another slabby route in Echo cove that I can't remember the name of. It's across the way from Big Moe.


Fun Stuff?


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By Tyler Smith
From Buena Park
May 12, 2011
Walking through Echo Cove looking for a good climb.

www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_pa>>>

This place is awesome and super fun.


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By Choss Chasin'
From Lawndale, CA
May 12, 2011
Black Mountain

Kevin Craig wrote:
Fun Stuff?


No I think it is just to the right of Fun Stuff. Fun Stuff only has 2 bolts in beginning then is trad to the top. Right?


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By Kevin Craig
May 13, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Choss Chasin' wrote:
No I think it is just to the right of Fun Stuff. Fun Stuff only has 2 bolts in beginning then is trad to the top. Right?


Ah right. Maybe Stichter Quits? Has a bolted anchor, but not exactly a sport climb with 4 bolts in 100+ feet.


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By Choss Chasin'
From Lawndale, CA
May 13, 2011
Black Mountain

Kevin Craig wrote:
Ah right. Maybe Stichter Quits? Has a bolted anchor, but not exactly a sport climb with 4 bolts in 100+ feet.


Okay I Just looked it up. Its The Sound of One Shoe Tapping.


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By Simon Hatfield
From Los Angeles, CA
May 30, 2011
Me placing a cam at the crux - photo courtesy G. Helm

If you want a challenge, check out Loose Lady. Its a .10a, but very safely bolted, and excellent climbing.

I haven't climbed Yasmine Bleeth or Dos Chi Chis, but they have a similar reputation.

JT bolted routes are done on lead, so for anything easier than .10a, climbs tend to be friction slab and quite run out. Here are some good ones that require nothing but a set of quickdraws and have bolted anchors.

Walk on the Wild side, 5.7+: 3 pitches, terrific, completely bolted, reducing the complexity of the multipitch, but is a serious and run out lead.

Dazed and Confused is similar, but 5.9. DO NOT BLOW IT GOING TO THE FIRST BOLT.

Sexy Grandma is right next to the parking lot, and although it has optional gear, you could get by without it.


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