J) Shaken, Not Stirred
||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 85'
|Consensus: ||M8+ [details]|
|FA: ||James Loveridge|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter Mixed + Drytool|
|Page Views: ||358|
|Submitted By: ||James Loveridge on Nov 30, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: The Chimney, Shaken, Not Stirred, Extra Dry Vermou...
A very airy route featuring a roof which is unique for the quarry as most anything that gets that steep tends to fall off the cliff… Start on slab 6 feet right of The Chimney. Climb blocky ledges/cracks and ice blobs on slab up through steepening wall and head right at the base of the bulging headwall. Ascend bulge trending back left, then go up blank looking headwall on slots and tiny edges trending trend right towards dihedral under the roof (there is often a tongue of ice here which makes this a lot easier). Contrive a rest under the roof and psych up for the airy bit (the roof isn’t actually that hard, just intimidating). Follow crack in the back of the roof out right to vertical crack around the lip. Pull through roof and continue up to anchors.
Starts just right of The Chimney and just left of Extra Dry Vermouth. Despite all 3 routes rather close proximity, they do not share any holds. Look for the double bent safe-clip bolt hangers that lead up through the roof to a pair of wire gate shuts at the top (you can rap off these hangars without leaving a biner)
12 QuickDraws for bolts. The roof is intimidating and some would say run-out but all the bolts are in the best place to minimize rope drag and keep a clean rope line through the overhangs. NOTE: This is NOT recommended as a TR but if you do, you MUST pre clip the climbing side of the rope through the bolt just over the roof (2nd to last bolt) to avoid cutting your rope on the sharp edge of the roof. Clipping another bolt (middle of headwall below the roof after bulge) would be recommended as well.