J + J Swerve
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This is a fantastic direct start to high anxiety adding a long, quality pitch of 5.10 crack climbing that protects well. It begins directly underneath the h. anxiety dihedral on chocolate rock right next to the start of night crawler. look for a finger crack start behind a bush and follow the swerving crack all the way to the ledge beneath the first bolt on h. anxiety at 190 feet.
set up belay as for nightcrawler below a slanting r. facing corner (nightcrawler's first pitch) and traverse right 10-15 ft. behind a bush to gain the crack. I admit that i used the bush for first left foot hold as i established myself in the crack off finger locks and good right feet.
the crack is strenuous and slightly steep on finger jams for 20'(10.a, purple camalots), then becomes very fun, imaginative and at times improbable 5.9 climbing until the corner ends(maybe 100'), casual 5.8 or easier crack climbing to the belay (final 70-90').
i've eyeballed this sexy swerving crack several times and Jasmine and I went to do High Anxiety and I was bored by the single pitch of real climbing so we added this pitch today thinking it would be 5.7 or 5.8 and what a gem! rock quality was stellar on chocolaty jams with great gear the whole way. Every time it seems impossible a great slot for a finger and gear appear! I highly recommend this start for anyone on H. Anxiety.
double rack to 3 inches, stoppers, triple purple camalot.
rap from the new bolt with two ropes or finish high anxiety.
yup, follow that sexy crack for 190 ft., nice addi...
Oct 11, 2011
yeah, big john! gettin it done! sounds like fun!