The hardest route at Cacti, Izimbra is long, sustained and pumpy. Not especially tweaky, this route will test your stamina on thin 2-finger pockets. There is one hold (Left Hand) that could be used as a mono, though its possible to cram 2 fingers in.
The route begins in a leaning dihedral, which soon kicks you out onto an overhanging wall. Powerful, shouldery, un-Cochiti-like moves on large slopers lead to a decent rest just before the crux section. A traverse left on good, sharp crimps leads to the crux: several long moves on thin 2-finger pockets, a mono, and one non-existent edge. Good footwork and creativity will get you to the right edge of a large pod and a dubious shake before the final technical headwall. At the last bolt the angle kicks back to a slab, and the holds decrease in size and depth to compensate. One or two more tricky, heady moves lead to the lip.
In the center of Cacti Cliff.
8 bolts; use the 2-bolt anchor for Crank Addiction. There's no fixed lowering equipment on the anchor, so you will need to scramble to the cliff top to clean your gear. The anchor is slightly to the right of the top out, near the end of Crank Addiction.
|By Hank Caylor|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 22, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Yep, I had a riot at Cochiti Mesa over a long weekend back in the early 90's. Touch Monkey seemed a little easy for the grade(just 13a), Izimbra was for sure 13b. 4 or 5 tries, and vert is my angle. If you like Penitente in Colorado, you will freak out on this place.
Jun 18, 2008
Glad you liked it Hank. Actually, there is direct start to Izimbra which to me is harder and deserves the 13b. The regular way starts in a corner and is more like hard 13a (13a/b?).