Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
5. Saturday Buttress
Select Route:
Alexandra David Neal TR 
Becky's Arete TR 
Black and Blue Bulge TR 
Black Wall TR 
Gulliver's Travels TR 
Ivy Right T,TR 
Jasper's Dihedral T,TR 
Old Stump T,TR 

Ivy Right 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Saturday Buttress

Description 

An excellent beginner climb or first lead. This route follows the crack system straight to the top.
  • RCM&W #68, p.47.

Location 

This route lies to the right of Jasper's Dihedral and to the left of Old Stump.

Protection 

Nuts and hexes. Bring cams if you trust them in quartzite. Standard top rope setup.


Photos of Ivy Right Slideshow Add Photo
Half way up Ivy right
Half way up Ivy right
One of my first trad leads ever.
One of my first trad leads ever.
Jeremy protecting the crux.
Jeremy protecting the crux.
Leading Ivy Right.
Leading Ivy Right.
Top rope on Ivy Right
BETA PHOTO: Top rope on Ivy Right

Comments on Ivy Right Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007

Great beginner lead--lots of restful stances and lots of placement options. Don't forget your tricams--they fit jagged quartzite cracks extremely well.
By Tom Smart
Apr 20, 2008

I turned this into a 2-pitch route with 2 followers by setting up a gear anchor at the ledge half-way up. Kind of a lot of work for a 45-foot climb, but good practice.
By Brett McGraw
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This was my fifth trad lead and best route I've lead to date. Lots of placement options and a great ledge at the top to set up a belay anchor.
By Chris Williams
From: Saint Paul, MN USA
Jun 2, 2011

You can actually do multipitch on this one. I've done it a handful of times for training people. About halfway up is a ledge that works as a good belay stance that is large enough for two people. Good way to learn switching leads and tying in and all that.
By andyedwards
From: Jackson, WY
Jan 25, 2012

Started leading this one, and about 25' up, find that I'm staring at a snake a foot in front of my face. Not poisonous, but I don't really care for snakes.
By Jack Taylor
Aug 6, 2015

The center line here (between Ivy Right and Old Stump) is an fun extra route that can be done on the same TR as Ivy R and Old Stump. Go directly over the hump, then straight up the center of the face using the crack of Ivy as little as possible. Finish using the finger crack and sort-of flake in the center of the face. To me it felt like somewhere between a hard 5.8 and a 5.9.
By BryanE
From: Minneapolis, MN
5 days ago

Just lead (most of) this on Saturday August 29th, 2015. I felt like it took amazing gear. About 10 feet below the top where there are two cracks I saw an active hornets nest in the right crack that I didn't feel comfortable leading past (already got stung by hornets on my 2nd ever trad lead this year, didn't want to go through that again). We had a top rope set up on Jaspers dihedral so I tied into that rope while on the ledge and went on belay on top rope and off belay on lead and came back and cleaned the gear on rappel. Careful if you're leading this route.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!