|5. Saturday Buttress
An excellent beginner climb or first lead. This route follows the crack system straight to the top.
This route lies to the right of Jasper's Dihedral and to the left of Old Stump.
Nuts and hexes. Bring cams if you trust them in quartzite. Standard top rope setup.
One of my first trad leads ever.
BETA PHOTO: Saturday Buttress
Leading Ivy Right.
Half way up Ivy right
|By Tyson S Arp|
Feb 16, 2007
Great beginner lead--lots of restful stances and lots of placement options. Don't forget your tricams--they fit jagged quartzite cracks extremely well.
|By Tom Smart|
Apr 20, 2008
I turned this into a 2-pitch route with 2 followers by setting up a gear anchor at the ledge half-way up. Kind of a lot of work for a 45-foot climb, but good practice.
|By Brett McGraw|
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
This was my fifth trad lead and best route I've lead to date. Lots of placement options and a great ledge at the top to set up a belay anchor.
|By Chris Williams|
From: Saint Paul, MN USA
Jun 2, 2011
You can actually do multipitch on this one. I've done it a handful of times for training people. About halfway up is a ledge that works as a good belay stance that is large enough for two people. Good way to learn switching leads and tying in and all that.
From: Jackson, WY
Jan 25, 2012
Started leading this one, and about 25' up, find that I'm staring at a snake a foot in front of my face. Not poisonous, but I don't really care for snakes.