I've Always Been Crazy  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's Season:  Spring, summer, fall Submitted By:  JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>> ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a classic route to sandbag your buddies on. To the left of Orange Out locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. Head towards that sucka through blocky rock any which way you like. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seem, and some possible jugs up above you. Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. A blue and yellow metolious tcu is good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the hard bit, but look for a small diaganol crack hold, after the rattly finger jams that will feel like a jug and enable you to get your feet above the lip. Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. Feels kinda like a Gunks route!

Location 

Orange out sector

Protection 

Wires, Purple to orange tcus, .5-.75 camalots, runners, draws, and a wee bit of suck it up.