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I've Always Been Crazy 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a classic route to sandbag your buddies on. To the left of Orange Out locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. Head towards that sucka through blocky rock any which way you like. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seem, and some possible jugs up above you.

Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. #.3ish sized pieces are good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the hard bit, but look for a small diaganol crack hold, after the rattly finger jams that will feel like a jug and enable you to get your feet above the lip.

Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. The whole top half of this line is really good climbing, though shes no looker. Kinda feels like a Gunks route!

Location 

Orange out sector

Protection 

Wires, Purple to orange tcus, .5-.75 camalots, runners, draws, and a wee bit of suck it up.


Comments on I've Always Been Crazy Add Comment
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By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

First ascent John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 26, 2008

Check out the beta photo for Mornings Mourning for a little more visual guidance. JJ
By Paul Davidson
Sep 29, 2008

I think the first might actually have been Robert Mueller...
By David Arthur Sampson
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I would suggest a variation; climb MM up until you can cross the arete (about 10 m). Follow arete and left side of arete to reach the overhanging "crown" (jewel!)