I've Always Been Crazy
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This is a classic route to sandbag your buddies on. To the left of Orange Out locate a steep splitter looking line that goes out a jutting prow. Head towards that sucka through blocky rock any which way you like. The important thing is that you end up beneath the only steep section around, looking at a thin seem, and some possible jugs up above you. Before you start the business I would recommend placing several pieces. A blue and yellow metolious tcu is good, as well a .75 camalot up and right towards the arete (the last good piece before commiting to the movement). A couple moves into the steeps, you will come across sloping, pumpy jugs and a conspicuous nut placement. A # 7 BD stopper, or # 8, or # 6, or # 5 will fit just fine. Punch up some more long lockoff moves to the lip, where a yellow metolious tcu or orange if that is all you have will protect the final moves. I find turning the lip to be the hard bit, but look for a small diaganol crack hold, after the rattly finger jams that will feel like a jug and enable you to get your feet above the lip. Bring several runners to make sure your rope runs smoothly through the beginning section. Feels kinda like a Gunks route!
Orange out sector
Wires, Purple to orange tcus, .5-.75 camalots, runners, draws, and a wee bit of suck it up.
|Comments on I've Always Been Crazy
|By Larry Coats|
Oct 28, 2007
First ascent John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's.
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 26, 2008
Check out the beta photo for Mornings Mourning for a little more visual guidance. JJ
|By Paul Davidson|
Sep 29, 2008
I think the first might actually have been Robert Mueller...
|By David Arthur Sampson|
Sep 30, 2008
I would suggest a variation; climb MM up until you can cross the arete (about 10 m). Follow arete and left side of arete to reach the overhanging "crown" (jewel!)