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It's Oral Over 

Hueco: V6- Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Travis Melin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,766
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Mar 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The early crux.

Description 

Thin! Stand start and move up a series of small/sharpish pinches. Bump to a good pinch just off the right arete, and move left onto more thin bad holds. Either make a final deadpoint to a minipocket out left, or dyno for the huge jug at the top. Super fun route!

Location 

The right side of the face

Protection 

Pad, definitely a spotter. The tree has a broken limb that will certainly poke you in the back if you fall mid route. This danger is easily prevented with a good spot.


Photos of It's Oral Over Slideshow Add Photo
AJ crankin at dusk
AJ crankin at dusk
Holding the small crimps up high, she came so close to sending. <br />Notice the spot by Langlois, he made love to that tree.
Holding the small crimps up high, she came so clos...
same
same
Ellen getting established.
Ellen getting established.
Weston getting on up.  He sent a few goes later.
Weston getting on up. He sent a few goes later.

Comments on It's Oral Over Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dobbe
Mar 7, 2009

Nice work Travis. Very good directions.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2009
rating: V6 7A

I climbed all the moves to the top, but couldn't commit the bump to the finish because of no spotter, and the tree is nobody's friend. A great boulder problem- good work Trav! IMO I would call this a 4 star V6,(tad harder than other V5s in the park) the holds are super small(and sharp) and far apart= perfect!
The face just left of Oral Over looks futuristic, but doable. Who will be the strong one to go and get after it.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 4, 2009
rating: V6 7A

Agree with Remo, scary at the top unless you have a good spotter (thanks Jay). Fun line, nice work Travis, and yes, for once, good directions! This line was very similar in difficulty to Alpine Bouldering Club, so harder than V5?
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 9, 2010
rating: V6 7A

I forgot how amazing this line really is. The holds are painful, but the movement is great. Save your skin and it's well worth the hike out.
By Langlois
From: NYC
May 12, 2010

Must reiterate what Remo said. I think this thing is a classic! Ellen and I will send next time out.
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 12, 2010

Anybody try to do the centerline?
By Langlois
From: NYC
May 12, 2010

Not yet, It was a bit dirty last weekend. Looks like there's something there though. Hard and thin
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 12, 2010
rating: V6 7A

Nice to see this line and area getting a little attention. Oral Over is great. I looked at the center line last year, hard is right. I'd be up for heading out there to clean it off and give it some love.
By Dobbe
May 13, 2010

Hey Chris we are going out on Sunday if you can get away.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 13, 2010
rating: V6 7A

Sweet, when I get done with work I will call you to see where you're at.