It's Oral Over V6-
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 feet |
| Consensus: | V6 [details] |
| FA: | Travis Melin |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | TravisMelin on Mar 5, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: The early crux.
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Description Thin! Stand start and move up a series of small/sharpish pinches. Bump to a good pinch just off the right arete, and move left onto more thin bad holds. Either make a final deadpoint to a minipocket out left, or dyno for the huge jug at the top. Super fun route!
Location The right side of the face
Protection Pad, definitely a spotter. The tree has a broken limb that will certainly poke you in the back if you fall mid route. This danger is easily prevented with a good spot.
same
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AJ crankin at dusk
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Ellen getting established.
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Holding the small crimps up high, she came so clos...
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Weston getting on up. He sent a few goes later.
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| Comments on It's Oral Over |
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By Dobbe
Mar 7, 2009
| Nice work Travis. Very good directions. |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2009
rating: V6
| I climbed all the moves to the top, but couldn't commit the bump to the finish because of no spotter, and the tree is nobody's friend. A great boulder problem- good work Trav! IMO I would call this a 4 star V6,(tad harder than other V5s in the park) the holds are super small(and sharp) and far apart= perfect!
The face just left of Oral Over looks futuristic, but doable. Who will be the strong one to go and get after it. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 4, 2009
rating: V6
| Agree with Remo, scary at the top unless you have a good spotter (thanks Jay). Fun line, nice work Travis, and yes, for once, good directions! This line was very similar in difficulty to Alpine Bouldering Club, so harder than V5? |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 9, 2010
rating: V6
| I forgot how amazing this line really is. The holds are painful, but the movement is great. Save your skin and it's well worth the hike out. |
By Langlois
From: NYC
May 12, 2010
| Must reiterate what Remo said. I think this thing is a classic! Ellen and I will send next time out. |
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 12, 2010
| Anybody try to do the centerline? |
By Langlois
From: NYC
May 12, 2010
| Not yet, It was a bit dirty last weekend. Looks like there's something there though. Hard and thin |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 12, 2010
rating: V6
| Nice to see this line and area getting a little attention. Oral Over is great. I looked at the center line last year, hard is right. I'd be up for heading out there to clean it off and give it some love. |
By Dobbe
May 13, 2010
| Hey Chris we are going out on Sunday if you can get away. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 13, 2010
rating: V6
| Sweet, when I get done with work I will call you to see where you're at. |
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