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Its Only Rock and Roll 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 710', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Shingo Ohkawa Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads) 3/21/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: USBRIT on Mar 29, 2012

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Paul and Shingo. View to the north.

Description 

A superb climb with great situations. The hike to the formation takes just over an hour from Two Finger canyon camp.Starts slightly left of center up a left facing groove( see topo )

P1)Climb the groove that has good cam and wire placements and four pro bolts. to double Anchors slightly to the right right of its end. 200'5.9.
P2)Up slab on left past one bolt to double anchors on massive ledge system.60'5.5.
P3)Scramble up about 40'to a narrow ledge and follow down to the right to the start of an obvious right facing groove.140'
P4)Another excellent pitch .Climb the groove, good cam and wire placements and three pro bolts. Trend to the right near its top to double anchors below a left leaning groove. 170' 5.7.
P5).Follow easy groove to the summit and double anchors to the right.150'5.4
Register in small cairn.

Descent. Rap to anchors at top of the last pitch, then backtrack the anchors to the top of P1, then from here to the ground.

Location 

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)

Protection 

Two 60m ropes.cams 1/2" to 3". wires.


Photos of Its Only Rock and Roll Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the dist...
Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the dist...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy and Shingo.
Andy and Shingo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
Rock Climbing Photo: Top out  pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit...
Top out pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo belaying Andy on P4
Shingo belaying Andy on P4
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" f...
The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy following P1
Andy following P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on P2
Paul on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing top of P1
Nearing top of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1
Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P1
Higher on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Now remember 60' between bolts,,, even if it is yo...
Now remember 60' between bolts,,, even if it is yo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P4
Higher on P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo ready for take off.photo Andy Ross
Shingo ready for take off.photo Andy Ross
Rock Climbing Photo: A) Its Only Rock and Roll. 710' 5.9
BETA PHOTO: A) Its Only Rock and Roll. 710' 5.9

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