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U Crags
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Its Only Rock and Roll 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 710', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Shingo Ohkawa Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads) 3/21/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: USBRIT on Mar 29, 2012

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Now remember 60' between bolts,,, even if it is yo...

Description 

A superb climb with great situations. The hike to the formation takes just over an hour from Two Finger canyon camp.Starts slightly left of center up a left facing groove( see topo )

P1)Climb the groove that has good cam and wire placements and four pro bolts. to double Anchors slightly to the right right of its end. 200'5.9.
P2)Up slab on left past one bolt to double anchors on massive ledge system.60'5.5.
P3)Scramble up about 40'to a narrow ledge and follow down to the right to the start of an obvious right facing groove.140'
P4)Another excellent pitch .Climb the groove, good cam and wire placements and three pro bolts. Trend to the right near its top to double anchors below a left leaning groove. 170' 5.7.
P5).Follow easy groove to the summit and double anchors to the right.150'5.4
Register in small cairn.

Descent. Rap to anchors at top of the last pitch, then backtrack the anchors to the top of P1, then from here to the ground.

Location 

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)

Protection 

Two 60m ropes.cams 1/2" to 3". wires.


Photos of Its Only Rock and Roll Slideshow Add Photo
The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" from camp at Two Fingers Canyon
The summit of its "Only Rock and Roll" from camp a...
Paul and Shingo. View to the north.
Paul and Shingo. View to the north.
Higher on P1
Higher on P1
Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
Paul folloving P4. Photo Andy Ross
Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1
Tele photo on the 5.9 section. P1
Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the distance.
Heading back to camp .La Sal Mountains in the dist...
Nearing top of P1
Nearing top of P1
A) Its Only Rock and Roll. 710' 5.9
BETA PHOTO: A) Its Only Rock and Roll. 710' 5.9
Andy following P1
Andy following P1
Top out  pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit .. Another route on The Sanstone Alps.
Top out pics.Andy and Shingo arrive on the summit...
Paul on P2
Paul on P2
Andy and Shingo.
Andy and Shingo.
Shingo belaying Andy on P4
Shingo belaying Andy on P4
Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
Birthday party at Two Fingers Canyon.
Higher on P4
Higher on P4
Shingo ready for take off.photo Andy Ross
Shingo ready for take off.photo Andy Ross

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