It's Flakey  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Elliott Crooks, 1987 Submitted By:  Dan Mottinger on Apr 28, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> As of March 7, 2012: Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May. Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May. Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June. Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May. Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

In the corner of the Falls Wall directly above the Buoux Block is the climb. The lower section is hard to protect with the crux being getting to the large pocket and thus the flake. The flake above (easier) is very aestetic and takes a few good cams. Lieback on the flake as much as you want! The start I took is the feature on the far right that is shaded. The crux is getting to the big pocket (left of the tree) The flake is hidden in this pic but obvious from any other angle.

Protection 

The bottom is tricky to protect. I used a large nut in a constricting crack/pocket. The upper flake takes some small to medium cams. Setting up an anchor is ploblematic. I used the bolts to the N with a good directional.