It's Better with Bacon 5.8
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BETA PHOTO: The start of "It's Better with Bacon"
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description It's Better with Bacon is a good route on a nice slab on Hogwild. The star rating is for the first 3 pitches. P1: start up a thin right trending crack. when it peters out, step right into another very thin right trending crack. The cracks are very thin, and take small nuts, but the moves are slab moves. P2: Straight up a 5.6 slab past 3 protection bolts. P3: Up a 12' crack to a bolted 5.6 slab. There is a 5.8 roof that must be surmounted at the end of the pitch, very fun!
Location Walk 100 yards past the beginning of the Hogwild until you see the two thin cracks of the first pitch that both trend up and right at a 45 degree angle, on a clean slab broken by good belay ledges.
Protection bolts, gear to 1", small nuts and micronuts. All anchors bolted. You can rap the route with one 60m rope
pitch 3
| Crux roof. I would not call it 5.8 more like 5.7
| pitch 4?
| thin crack pitch one
| first placement in thin crack
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| Comments on It's Better with Bacon |
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By lars johnson From: San Francisco, CA Jun 6, 2007
| The post forgot to mention the $$ pitch, #4. Mantels to long reaches if you are under 5'9" [5.8] and then a series of small roofs to a bolted belay on the left. Pitch 5 is usually skipped as it is dirty and loose. Pitch 3 rappel is 105' not quite reaching the bolts with a 60m rope. No worries as it is a huge ledge. Very fun route and nicely protected. Leave the big pro at the car. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Jun 22, 2008
| Pitches 1 and 2 combine at 185'. Pitches 3 and 4 combine at 198'. From there, a short final pitch (~50') leads to the top and a straightforward walk off. |
By GMBurns Jul 21, 2008
| Kind of a boring route with false-advertising in the SuperTopo and a one-move wonder to push the grade. The thin-crack first pitch is fun to look at, but not that stiff. Bring micro nuts if you're not comfortable with run-outs. The third pitch offers the single 5.8 move, a high-step and smear over a well-protected roof. This would be a good practice climb for folks without slab experience. |
By phatline From: Burlingame, CA Feb 10, 2009
| The 5.8 roof feels contrived; in fact, when leading I didn't see the bolt and chose the easier variation 5' to the right (with solid pro, even!) that avoids the 5.8 altogether. After bringing up my second I lowered down so I could do the roof--it was fun but not remarkably so. I am not as sour about the last pitch as most seem to be--it is a little dirty, but probably only because no one does it. I like P1 best. |
By Tim Camuti From: Placerville, CA Aug 16, 2009
| Great climb with many interesting roofs in the final pitches. Guidebook (Supertopo) lists 5 pitches to the top, we linked 2-3 and 4-5 for a fantastic climb, a lot of fun with a variety of moves and rock. Final pitch was dirty, short 5th class, then 4th, belayed off the Juniper on the summit. I agree with Lars Johnson that pitch 4 is a lot of fun. If you are climbing on Hogwild after this, then rappel is OK. Otherwise, save the time and just climb out and walk down to the campground or the Leap itself. |
By Floyd Hayes Jun 21, 2010 rating: 5.8 PG13
| Brilliantly contrived! I like slab so I really liked this climb, even more than Bear's Reach and Surrealistic Pillar, but less than Corrugation Corner, and did it twice within a few days. The first bolt on pitch 2 is a bit off the deck, easiest to reach by traversing in from the left. The crux 5.8 overhang was fun, even if a bit contrived. Pitch 5 wasn't much fun, appeared to have a few options (I traversed right to the "hanging tooth" and then back left), and my rope wound up running over a disconcertingly jagged 4' edge just left of the "hanging tooth." When rappelling from the 4th anchor, pitch 4 is about 95' (best to tie a knot at the ends of a 60 m rope) and pitch 3 is a few feet longer than 100' (60 m rope ends dangle several feet above the big ledge). |
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK Sep 14, 2012 rating: 5.8
| I'd say P1 is the crux to lead as protection is poor until you reach the thin left-slanting crack (UK grade HVS 4b/c). The start of P4 has harder moves (long reaches; UK VS 5a) but very close to bolts. It seems very contrived to go direct round the overlap on P3 as there are big holds just to the right. With double ropes it's easy to make 2 abseils back dowm. |
By powderfinger From: san mateo Nov 5, 2012
| Great climb to take someone up if they are new to multi-pitch climbing. With all the bolted anchors so close together you can bail at anytime and rap with one 60m. IMO 1st, the 4th(?) bolted reachy pitch, and the top-out pitch with the tooth thing are the best pitches. Top it out. |
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