Itchy and Scratchy
||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Cameron Burns, Jesse Harvey, Erik Cook (1997). FFA:Alan "Heavy Duty" Stevenson, Kevin Chase (1998)|
|Page Views: ||1,110|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Kiessel on Nov 7, 2006|
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Climb up and right around the corner to a sloping ledge. Follow bolts past LOOSE rock and over a bulge to the shoulder. Then one more pin to the summit.
Note:The rock is very loose, we climbed this at 5.8, C1.
Start on the Southwest corner of the tower, at a pin.
Quick draws are all we used. Tie-offs for some of the pins. One rope for the rap.
BETA PHOTO: Crusty's sweet anchors.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 8, 2008
You're right Cam loose is good it keeps the crowds down.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Everywhere and nowhere
Apr 1, 2009
The rock was a bit sandy, but I wouldn't call it loose. It's no worse than what's on Homer and Marge. This was a much easier tick than I expected it to be, as I was told that it was pretty scary. Easily went at 5.8 C1 (mostly I just pulled on the bolts but there were two bolts where I used aiders). Fun!
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Mar 28, 2012
did it yesterday with drake. 5.8 c1. crusty for sure and a bit scary as all the pins are hanging half way out. good new bolt at crux but looks harder than 10b.