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Abracadabra T 
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Forgotten Ambition T 
Goth Girls S 
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
Italian Arete S 
Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
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Salem's Lot S,TR 
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Witchhunt S 
Zombieland T 

Italian Arete 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tony Calderone, 1992
Page Views: 10,282
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Jun 15, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown climber on 6. Italian Arete (5.6) and the ...


Nice climb follows the arete left of Entre Nous to the anchors above the main ledge. The second pitch continues up and to the right but is not quite as excellent.


P1: Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Shares anchors with Entre Nous which are past the ledge to the right. On a crowded day this could spell H-A-S-S-L-E; consider climbing it as one pitch.

P2:Two bolts to the anchor.

Photos of Italian Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Italian Arête.
Italian Arête.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun route.
Fun route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving onto the arête
Moving onto the arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Italian arête from south east perspective.
Italian arête from south east perspective.
Rock Climbing Photo: .
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a fun climb up the corner
Such a fun climb up the corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephen Gill near the top of Italian Arette (5.6)
Stephen Gill near the top of Italian Arette (5.6)
Rock Climbing Photo: On the arête
On the arête
Rock Climbing Photo: James Jordan on Italian Arete.
James Jordan on Italian Arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope is on the route.
BETA PHOTO: The rope is on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Amanda's first outdoor red-point
Amanda's first outdoor red-point
Rock Climbing Photo: .

Comments on Italian Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 16, 2004

This is a nice climb for fledgling leaders (like me). Bomber hand and foot holds, especially around the bolts, instill confidence. Use the Tyrolean traverse to cross Big Cottonwood Creek. This will take you to the sport cave. A 100 yard walk around to the right of the cave puts you in front of the slips.
By Lee Gitlin
May 10, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Lowering from the anchors will tend to swing you into the inside corner, left of the route as you look up. Have your belayer be careful and lower slowly, as this corner is heinous and jagged.
By Pat Welsh
From: SLC, UT
May 7, 2007

Fun route. cruiser climb on big holds and positive edges, with interesting moves. The crack/corner to the left is a fun easy 5.5 trad climb with fun layback moves.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Nov 13, 2007

Incorporated ooo's comments into the description.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Jul 30, 2009

One of the few good 5.6's in the canyon.
By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 24, 2012

Fun 5.6. Consider flipping your ropes around the arete and onto the face (entre nous) to descend.
By Jordy
Jun 13, 2013

A great 5.6!
By MRock
Jul 15, 2013

exciting arete climbing. has it's own anchors now. barely made it with a 50m with a little rope stretch. lowering in the corner isnt too bad, just go slow.
By Wic
From: SLC, UT
Sep 10, 2015

If you are considering where to go for your first sport lead climb, this is an excellent choice. Not very exposed (on first pitch), bomber holds, and excellent ledge to rap down from at the top of the first pitch. After you get some confidence, add the second pitch to this fun climb!

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