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Dozier Dome
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Bit by Bit S 
Bull Dozier T 
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 
Cheetos and Everclear S 
Dozier Dihedral T 
Dumpster Evangelist T,S 
Errett Bit T 
Errett Out T 
Felsic S 
Holdless Horror T 
Isostacy T 
Loud and Obnoxious S 
Plutonics S 
Read Between the Lines TR 
Ripple T 
Scandalous Summer T 
Tourette's S 
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You, Me, and the Dike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Isostacy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 470'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Law, George Ridgley, Linda Jarit
Page Views: 985
Submitted By: J. Albers on Sep 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: The 4th class approach pitch goes up crack in the ...

Description 

Beautiful rock with a great mix of face and crack climbing. Second pitch requires some careful route finding for the easiest path. There is a bit of R-rated climbing, but the gear is there and the stances to place it from are comfortable.

Pitch one: 50 feet of 4th class to a ledge. Gear anchor.

Pitch two: (5.8R) Climb a right trending ramp to an obvious downward pointing roof/flake, get gear, then pull onto the flake and face climb up and left to another right facing flake which takes gear. Climb up and left to another, smaller right facing flake that takes a small cam and then go a ways up and left to a subtle right trending ramp in the area with the brightest white rock (a bit of small gear here). Follow the right trending ramp up and back right to the first bolt. Climb up past three more bolts to a double bolt anchor with chains.

The crux is well protected with bolts, but you do need to climb some 5.7R between gear placements before the bolts. Excellent climbing. 160-170 feet.

Pitch three: (5.6) Face climb up and right for 40 feet, aiming for a hand crack. You can get some gear before the crack, but you need to use runners. This part is a bit run out, but very easy climbing, maybe 5.4. Follow the pretty 5.6 hand crack to a two bolt anchor with chains. Full 200 feet.

Pitch four: (5.8) Climb straight up from the belay over bulges past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. 60 feet.


Location 

Location: Approx. 100 feet left of Holdless Horror (obvious wide crack running from the bottom to the top of Dozier Dome). 50 feet from the ground there is an obvious dike starting at Holdless Horror and running upwards from right to left. Straight down from the end of the dike is the downward pointing flake and the first belay.

Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes or continue up exposed 3rd and 4th class to the top of the dome (some may want a belay for the first portion of this). If you rappel, you must down climb the initial 4th class pitch, because the rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground is 230 feet.


Protection 

Standard trad rack including nuts and small cams to 2 inches. Long runners for the somewhat wandering 2nd pitch and the start of the 3rd pitch.



Photos of Isostacy Slideshow Add Photo
In this photo you can see (in the order they are described in the description): the right leaning ramp; the downward pointing flake; first right facing flake (in white rock to the immediate right of the prominent black streak); second left facing flake (in the black streak); and the white area. You then head up and right to the first bolt.
BETA PHOTO: In this photo you can see (in the order they are d...
Comments on Isostacy Add Comment
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By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Although there is a little bit of spice on this route, it is not really runout by Tuolumne standards. Probably should warrant an R-, in supertopo terms. (Interesting to note, in the supertopo guidebook it is only listed as 5.8R on the topo itself. In the index and the text of the book the rating does not have an R.)

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 9, 2013

I hear what you are saying Todd, that is, compared to many other R-rated Meadows routes, Isostacy is rather tame. Still, just because a route is tame compared to other R-rated routes doesn't mean that the route doesn't have dangerous fall potential deserving of a grade note.

With regards to the second pitch of Isostacy, I think that if you fell while climbing up and left on the downward pointing flake, you would get pretty badly hurt because of the very slabby nature of the landing. Combined with the fact that you actually need to do a few moves in this section (albeit on mostly positive knobs), I thought that it was prudent to warn people. I guess I simply erred on the side of caution when entering it in the database so that folks would know that it is possible to get hurt if you fall in certain sections. But you're right, this route ain't 'R' in the same way that the Dike Route over on Pywiak is.

By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Agreed, that spot was the one place where I thought that the climbing was fairly sustained and a fall could mess you up.

I guess when I think of Tuolumne 5.8R, routes like South Crack, Great Pumpkin, and Magical Mystery Tour come to mind, which all have huge runouts compared to Isostacy. I was prepared for climbing like that and was relieved to find that pitch 2 actually protects much better than can be seen from the ground.

All in all I think it's a fun route that deserves more traffic than it seems to get. If you're pretty solid at the grade, go get on it.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Jul 5, 2014

I agree with you both, although, 5.8R would mean you are climbing 5.8 moves while being run out. The cruxes of this route are well protected so not actually R by the standard definition. Non the less there are several runouts that should be noted in the rating. An R- seems to be appropriate.

Regardless, this is my favorite route on the wall.