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BETA PHOTO: The 4th class approach pitch goes up crack in the ...
Beautiful rock with a great mix of face and crack climbing. Second pitch requires some careful route finding for the easiest path. There is a bit of R-rated climbing, but the gear is there and the stances to place it from are comfortable.
Pitch one: 50 feet of 4th class to a ledge. Gear anchor.
Pitch two: (5.8R) Climb a right trending ramp to an obvious downward pointing roof/flake, get gear, then pull onto the flake and face climb up and left to another right facing flake which takes gear. Climb up and left to another, smaller right facing flake that takes a small cam and then go a ways up and left to a subtle right trending ramp in the area with the brightest white rock (a bit of small gear here). Follow the right trending ramp up and back right to the first bolt. Climb up past three more bolts to a double bolt anchor with chains.
The crux is well protected with bolts, but you do need to climb some 5.7R between gear placements before the bolts. Excellent climbing. 160-170 feet.
Pitch three: (5.6) Face climb up and right for 40 feet, aiming for a hand crack. You can get some gear before the crack, but you need to use runners. This part is a bit run out, but very easy climbing, maybe 5.4. Follow the pretty 5.6 hand crack to a two bolt anchor with chains. Full 200 feet.
Pitch four: (5.8) Climb straight up from the belay over bulges past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. 60 feet.
Location: Approx. 100 feet left of Holdless Horror (obvious wide crack running from the bottom to the top of Dozier Dome). 50 feet from the ground there is an obvious dike starting at Holdless Horror and running upwards from right to left. Straight down from the end of the dike is the downward pointing flake and the first belay.
Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes or continue up exposed 3rd and 4th class to the top of the dome (some may want a belay for the first portion of this). If you rappel, you must down climb the initial 4th class pitch, because the rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground is 230 feet.
Standard trad rack including nuts and small cams to 2 inches. Long runners for the somewhat wandering 2nd pitch and the start of the 3rd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: In this photo you can see (in the order they are d...