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Isle of the Dead 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 2000
Page Views: 2,352
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Jun 1, 2002

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Climber approaching the bulging upper section of I...

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Description 

Start at the left side of The Wall of the Dead, in the chimney that is the start for Tomb of Sorrows.

There is a loose shelf leading up into the chimney and the first bolt is in a black-streaked area on the right.

The route is well bolted and has some good moves through the middle section. Gain a rest at a flake and go for the crux moves approaching the anchor above a bulge of sorts. Good quality rock, good protection, rather continous and interesting climbing.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Isle of the Dead Slideshow Add Photo
Isle of the Dead.  The easiest line climbs  right of the bolts at the hardest moves.
BETA PHOTO: Isle of the Dead. The easiest line climbs right ...
Santa Fe near the top of Isle of the Dead.
Santa Fe near the top of Isle of the Dead.

Comments on Isle of the Dead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 29, 2012
By S. Kimball
Sep 27, 2002

Besides the fact that this route is contrived, dirty, unesthetic, rotten and the 5th bolt is in an exfoliated plate, I just can't find a place to keep my pants clean when I'm sitting to belay...
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 21, 2003

I climbed it last weekend and found it enjoyable. The rock was clean and solid, with the exception of the loose crack to the right of the first few moves (although using the crack isn't necessary anyway). The route itself had interesting moves, and seemed rather sustained. The cruxes felt to be at the very beginning and very end.
By chad wolak
May 4, 2004

Rossiter's website (boulderclimbs.com) grades this climb 10a. It felt like 10+ to me (as compared to other 10s I've climbed in Boulder Canyon).
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 18, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Keeps you thinking if you avoid bailing right after halfway. Last clip made easier by finding hidden hand hold out left...decent stances the whole way.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Aug 14, 2007

If 5.10 is your limit, this will feel very hard. If you warm up on .10s, skip this one and do the next one to the right (Dead Again).
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun.
By mike h
From: Denver, CO
Aug 5, 2010

I agree - it's frustrating when 'bailing right' means using the better holds that are a safe, easy reach from the bolt line. The bolts could direct you left more if that's what was really intended.
By Benten
From: Denver
Oct 9, 2010

Peeps definitely need to be a little easier on this route, because it is great for learning the speedbumps of 5.10 climbing. There are trust issues here, but hey we all have a little bit of those, right?
By dseltzer
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found this route fun if you stay on the bolt line (hard for a 5.10b I thought). My partner who went up right and stuck to the crack(probably a 5.9 or so) also enjoyed it... so maybe it's contrived, but it's fun either way.
By Jeff Chrisler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Rarely am I one to comment on the way a climb was bolted due to the sheer effort put in. Here though, I don't understand this route and the bolting at all. It's definitely contrived if you follow the bolt line and stay off the things to the right. To me though, it's so close to the easier things on the right that you might as well have bolted that area instead. When I was climbing this today, I wanted to go left, but there was so little there and no chalk whatsoever I felt off route. I just wished I was on something else and that rarely happens. If one wanted us to climb the harder portions of this to the left, I think the bolt line should have been even farther to the left and this would go at high 5.10s or even 11.

I say, avoid this route, and climb either Dead Again or Strange Science to enjoy your day.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2012

So it isn't perfect, I had fun. Some thinking required.