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Isis Buttress
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Isis 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Hickman, Anderson, Bryant 1969 FFA: Unknown FFA (Hand fi
Page Views: 1,013
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Joseffa Meir follows up the combined P1/P2 of 'Isi...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs the impressive dihedral and roof system to the left of 'Book of the Dead Chimney.' Looks much harder than the grade, but looks can be deceiving. Both of the cruxes felt no harder than 10b.

P1: Start on the right side of the face below the massive dihedral and roofs above. Work up and left on easy terrain until following cracks inside the big right facing dihedral. Continue and hand jam over the first small roof and belay before the bigger roof (8).

P2: Climb the first strenuous roof and wiggle up to easier terrain above, but don't head towards the original finish, instead jam the steep hand crack on the left wall up to the arete! Belay right here, peeking over to watch your second battle.

Climb directly left and down to 1st and 2nd tree or 3rd tree.

Rap 100ft from 2nd tree, or about 80ft from 3rd along the route Pharoah's Child.


Protection 

Standard rack including RPs.



Photos of Isis Slideshow Add Photo
Easy slabs lead to the dihedral which is 5.7 and 5.8. Maybe 150 feet to a semi-hanging belay above the ceiling below the big roof. Fixed slings at the belay around a constriction.
Easy slabs lead to the dihedral which is 5.7 and 5...
Pitch 1 from below. The grass does not detract from the climbing. <br /> <br />There are a couple of hard routes on the left wall. Ramses 10c and Cat Dancing 11a are around the corner to the left. Alien Touch 11+ is the arete on the right side of the slab. Right of that is the deep Book of the Dead 9+ chimney. The left facing wall at the right of the photo shows the upper parts of Dead Boy 10b, Living Dead 11b, Road Kill 10b, etc.
Pitch 1 from below. The grass does not detract fro...
Tony Bubb getting twisted on the last few feet of the steep pitch of 'Isis (10a)' at Lumpy Ridge. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2005.
Tony Bubb getting twisted on the last few feet of ...
I'm placing a good nut on top of a good (currently) fixed nut at the start of the crux. Above this you can get 1 or 2 hand-sized cams, but it's hard to hang out there. The crux is over when your left leg is stemmed out to the small bush on the left. The route continues more easily from there with right side into the corner/chimney and left leg stemming. <br /> <br />You can see from this photo that the big roof that looks almost horizontal from the ground is more like an overhanging corner.
I'm placing a good nut on top of a good (currently...
Isis is the bright orange dihedral in the bottom right of the image.
BETA PHOTO: Isis is the bright orange dihedral in the bottom r...
Photo by Luke Clarke. <br /> <br />In the middle of the crux. Awkward hand jamming followed by a long reach to a wide jam and then stem out left. <br /> <br />The exit crack is visible in the orange rock directly above the rightmost of the two bushes.
Photo by Luke Clarke.

In the middle of the crux. ...
Joseffa Meir figures out how to avoid the wide section of jamming on 'Isis (10a)' at Lumpy Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Joseffa Meir figures out how to avoid the wide sec...
Photo by Luke Clarke. <br /> <br />Starting the steep exit crack (10a?). The original route angled right from below here on low-angle easy grooves. <br /> <br />The crack protects with nuts and finger-sized cams. I used a medium nut and two red Aliens. <br /> <br />The moves are a mix of laybacks, finger jams, and buckets with a couple of decent footholds. Small hands might find some hand jams.
Photo by Luke Clarke.

Starting the steep exit cra...
Making the crux on the P1.
Making the crux on the P1.
Comments on Isis Add Comment
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By Nikos
Aug 13, 2002

Well, I guess some stars have to be taken out of this one. There are bird droppings on every sloper on the first pitch. I guess it is because it's not visited often. Anyway, just to let you know....

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 11, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good route, but not as good as it looks. What seems to be a 20 foot roof at the top of the big dihedral is just a few awkward and difficult well-protected moves to get stemmed out left. After that it's a minor grovel, right side in, left leg stemming. The final crack is gorgeous--good to be back to normal climbing--but short. More of a finger crack/layback than a hand crack.

Jesse, in his original posting of this route, rates the climb 10a, but says "no move over 10b". Gillett says 10b for the first crux and 10a for the final crack. Doesn't much matter since the pro is good and cruxes are short.

No bird shit as of today.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You know, I was a little disappointed. The first pitch was "blah" 5.8. The second pitch opened with an awkward sequence with some bad rock, and I broke off the footholds on which I was stemming. I had I nice time on the last 40', but that's 40' out of 200'. Surely nothing to write home about.

By Joseffa Meir
Jul 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is a fixed stopper at the roof move which was quite nice to have. Overall, a neat pitch with some interesting moves.

By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 26, 2006

With a 70m rope I lead from ground to 15' above roof/headwall, with very little rope drag, a much nicer pitch. Above the 5.0 section, my partner Trevor found really nice hand cracks on an arete going in the 5.7 range that made it a great outing.

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Feb 2, 2009

Very windy today so we stuck low, managed to cruise up the first pitch to the slinged horn. The overhang near the end of P1 could go at low 9, but I give the first pitch an 8-.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 1, 2010

Sling horn, where were you?

Also, the overlap of P1 is 5.8.

I'm going to try to clean up P1 next time I go back. It would be a great climb without the grunge of P1.