Ischemic Pain / Body Buster 5.12a PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Equipped by Jay Goodwin, completed by Dan Sperlock |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on May 30, 2007 |
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Description Ischemic Pain: Pain due to inadequate blood supply to an organ or part of the body - especially the heart. The two names reflect the route equipper and the FA.
The route takes the crazy NW Arete of Lost Arrow. Clip the first bolt and perform a really crimpy, bouldery sequence to establish on a better hold and a second clip. Continue up run out terrain past a poorly located (ie dangerous) bolt. This is the fourth clip which would be much better located down and left by 10-15 feet, but it can easily be back cleaned once the next clip is made. Higher up a green or yellow Alien provides crucial pro to protect a huge run out. A final sequence of crazy fin-pinching and liebacking leads to a thin top out. Great route!
Protection 10 draws and a small cam or two. A 60m rope gets you down but just barely! A 70 would make this much easier logistically.
| Comments on Ischemic Pain / Body Buster |
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By Ben Folsom
Aug 21, 2007
| I love this route! All of the hard climbing is well protected. The only problem I had with this route was waiting for people to rappel off the summit. I had to hang out on a good stance for a while before being able to continue to the upper crux section while a large group from the classic route was rapping off. Super good, as far as I am concerned, one of the Cities classics! |
By Jesse James
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.12a
| I ended up going straight up and slightly right from the fourth bolt. I skipped the bolt to the left that was almost at the exact same height, but I'm not sure if this was off route or not. Going to the left of the two bolts would have made a slightly more direct line. Above that bolt, you'll definitely want a piece or two, its a long way between bolts, although not terribly hard. The final moves to the lip were a lot harder than expected. |
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