Is trad climbing safe if you're fat?

I was hoping to get some opinions on taking lead falls when you're fat. Plus the weight of some of you bigger guys who have fallen on gear.

I weigh 270 lbs and have started to trad lead stuff that I wouldn't solo. So now I'm starting to think what if? I have had proper instruction from many different qualified people. I've had more than one well known guide follow me to evaluate my gear placements. So the knowledge is there but I'm still worried I'm too heavy for any gear to hold. What you think?

Is a mock lead fall really a good idea? I don't wanna damage a cam or weld a nut into a crack while pretending.

At 220 I have similar concerns. My plan is to purchase some used cams on ebay, set up a double rope belay, one on top rope the other trad pro, then take a dive.

I know it sounds like a stupid idea, but it should allow me to gain some confidence in cams...

Play with this calculator, and even more important, understand it well enough that when you are out on a climb, you can remember it!

myoan.net/climbart/climbfor…

Enter different rope lengths, different body weights, see what happens. The most important thing is the 'jesus piece, the first piece off the belay. Don't place a grey zero 5 feet out!
And taking fake falls? Why? To see if something fails? Most gear, well placed will hold you, your rack, and more. Just think it out, be smart, and have fun! And good on you getting out there...
BTW, i lost 25 pounds in the first year of climbing, started in my 50's, so get on it!

No human is going to pull a well placed piece in good rock with a decent amount of rope out, regardless of their weight.
I've never been that heavy, but with my rack (especially in winter) I still weigh close to 200 lbs.

I've fallen on well placed pieces, on short routes with minimal rope out, they all held.

Climb on.

Dallas, I don't think anything that gets your head in a better place is stupid.

Muscrat, thank you for that chart! It seems that the fact I place gear every ten or fifteen feet will help keep the FF low. I know what you're saying about not falling close to the anchor. There's a route I like to climb that the crux is right after the first belay. I always think about placing something as soon possible.

I usually get pumped at the top of routes that don't have many rests. It looks as though that produces the lowest FF.. if you placed gear close before the fall.

200 lb fat man here. I've fallen on everything from big #3 BD to small green c3. They all hold. The gear will do exactly what its designed to do pending proper placement.

Don't let your weight hold you back from crushing gear routes, although if you did loose weight climbing as a whole will be easier!

Kirby1013 wrote: I was hoping to get some opinions on taking lead falls when you're fat. Plus the weight of some of you bigger guys who have fallen on gear. I weigh 270 lbs and have started to trad lead stuff that I wouldn't solo. So now I'm starting to think what if? I have had proper instruction from many different qualified people. I've had more than one well known guide follow me to evaluate my gear placements. So the knowledge is there but I'm still worried I'm too heavy for any gear to hold. What you think? Is a mock lead fall really a good idea? I don't wanna damage a cam or weld a nut into a crack while pretending.

My advice for what it's worth...two things spring to mind. Are you worried a) just about falling, or b)falling and gear holding?

a) easy - practice lead and toprope falls indoors

b) difficult to evaluate - every gear placement different. Concentrate on as good a gear placement as you can get. If possible do this on the ground, place gear using left, right and both hands. Then clip in to it and fall over. You're not going far, and if you clip into it with a quickdraw (extended) on your harness you'll soon get a feel for what works. Hope that helps.

DON´T use the force calculator linked to, it´s completely wrong and always has been.
At 270 you are right to be a little cautious but worry less about the gear holding (which is usually more a question of good placement and luck) and concerns yourself with the most weight sensitive part in the chain, your belayer.
The "standard" weight for testing is a conversion from a climber weight of 100kg so 220 odd lbs so you aren´t really that far over (unless your going to carry another 40lbs of gear of course).

Nick Mattson wrote:200 lb fat man here. I've fallen on everything from big #3 BD to small green c3. They all hold. The gear will do exactly what its designed to do pending proper placement. Don't let your weight hold you back from crushing gear routes, although if you did loose weight climbing as a whole will be easier!

Thanks!

I'm weak minded, what can I say. I tried to diet but I still eat too much. I started back lifting eight weeks ago and have become a better and more confident climber from it. Funny since I lost 3 inches on my waist but gained 10 pounds. Ian said it best. When you start earting less the hunger should only last a few days. Your stomach will shrink and you will feel normal again. I really should research weight loss as I have the knowledge to be a good climber. If only I could ice climb year round! Haha...

Jim Titt wrote:DON´T use the force calculator linked to, it´s completely wrong and always has been. At 270 you are right to be a little cautious but worry less about the gear holding (which is usually more a question of good placement and luck) and concerns yourself with the most weight sensitive part in the chain, your belayer. The "standard" weight for testing is a conversion from a climber weight of 100kg so 220 odd lbs so you aren´t really that far over (unless your going to carry another 40lbs of gear of course).

Thanks! My wife is my favorite belayer for just that reason. She's cool with being anchored to a tree. I clove hitch her end of the rope to a sling. I figure the rope is dymanic where a sling is not. My friends are always like" I'll be fine". I've pulled my belayer almost up to the first bolt at the gym.

Jim Titt wrote:DON´T use the force calculator linked to, it´s completely wrong and always has been.

Seriously, what the hell? It doesn't even get the fall factor right.

Kirby1013 wrote: Thanks! My wife is my favorite belayer for just that reason. She's cool with being anchored to a tree. I clove hitch her end of the rope to a sling. I figure the rope is dymanic where a sling is not. My friends are always like" I'll be fine". I've pulled my belayer almost up to the first bolt at the gym.

My 11 year old belays me - as long as I can get him a solid ground anchor absolutely no problem!

No, but it's not really safe if you're skinny either.

I personally wouldn't lead belay you. You outweigh me by 135lbs, I get tossed around like a ragdoll by people 50lbs heavier than me. I would not want to expose myself to the risk of belaying someone so much larger.

You're not going to break the rope and all your best gear will stay put. However your chances of getting dropped because you accidentally bashed your belayer are far higher at that weight.

I can't imagine the last 80 or 90 lbs is functional, are you trying to lose any weight?

nicelegs wrote:I personally wouldn't lead belay you. You outweigh me by 135lbs, I get tossed around like a ragdoll by people 50lbs heavier than me. I would not want to expose myself to the risk of belaying someone so much larger. You're not going to break the rope and all your best gear will stay put. However your chances of getting dropped because you accidentally bashed your belayer are far higher at that weight. I can't imagine the last 80 or 90 lbs is functional, are you trying to lose any weight?

hahahahhaah. Also, to say that someone weighing over 180 is not "fuction" is very silly. Also, it is funny that some half his weight is suggesting weight loss.

To the OP: There are a lot of ways to belay someone heavier than yourself. Not everyone knows them. You should learn them and me sure to teach your partners if need be.

Its only safe if you climb on these

metoliusclimbing.com/fat-ca…

much safer than skinny; when you deck, you have more cushion. And, you can land on your belayer with greater ease. win win all around

matt c. wrote: hahahahhaah. Also, to say that someone weighing over 180 is not "fuction" is very silly. Also, it is funny that some half his weight is suggesting weight loss. To the OP: There are a lot of ways to belay someone heavier than yourself. Not everyone knows them. You should learn them and me sure to teach your partners if need be.

So you're saying that if he drops 80 or 90 lbs, his climbing ability will decrease?

I can count on one hand the people I have met who climb well that weigh over 180. I don't have a finger short enough to count the people who climb well at 270.

Go ahead and defend your weight all you want, then turn it into some alpine vs sport thing. Whatever, there is ALWAYS a fitter smaller guy doing more and doing it faster and in better style than the Clydesdale.

To the OP. You're going to wear out gear faster. You're going to lose more nuts. You're going to break more holds. You're going to have fewer partners excited to climb with you. You'll live. I can't think of a reason not to pursue a longer and healthier life AND get more out of climbing in the process.

Or flame me for noticing the elephant in the room. Whatever, I'm drinking beer and eating brownies all night.

nicelegs wrote: So you're saying that if he drops 80 or 90 lbs, his climbing ability will decrease? I can count on one hand the people I have met who climb well that weigh over 180. I don't have a finger short enough to count the people who climb well at 270. Go ahead and defend your weight all you want, then turn it into some alpine vs sport thing. Whatever, there is ALWAYS a fitter smaller guy doing more and doing it faster and in better style than the Clydesdale. To the OP. You're going to wear out gear faster. You're going to lose more nuts. You're going to break more holds. You're going to have fewer partners excited to climb with you. You'll live. I can't think of a reason not to pursue a longer and healthier life AND get more out of climbing in the process. Or flame me for noticing the elephant in the room. Whatever, I'm drinking beer and eating brownies all night.

hahahha hahah so this is what happens to people with little guy complexes when they grows up.... So following the same logic you should lose 20 pounds right? The average weigh of the top climber is like 115. You are a little on the heavy side. If you do this you will, become a better climber, lose less nuts, your shit will smell of roses and more people will wanna climb with you!

that better be light beer your drinking!

nicelegs wrote: So you're saying that if he drops 80 or 90 lbs, his climbing ability will decrease? I can count on one hand the people I have met who climb well that weigh over 180. I don't have a finger short enough to count the people who climb well at 270. Go ahead and defend your weight all you want, then turn it into some alpine vs sport thing. Whatever, there is ALWAYS a fitter smaller guy doing more and doing it faster and in better style than the Clydesdale. To the OP. You're going to wear out gear faster. You're going to lose more nuts. You're going to break more holds. You're going to have fewer partners excited to climb with you. You'll live. I can't think of a reason not to pursue a longer and healthier life AND get more out of climbing in the process. Or flame me for noticing the elephant in the room. Whatever, I'm drinking beer and eating brownies all night.

also, how does one make prestigious list of climbing well?? i just want your approval...

Lots of good advice here. Your biggest concern (in relation to your weight) should be your belayer.