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Is there 5.10 climbing along the Green River?

Original Post
Makaela Herran · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 5

I want to take a rafting/climbing trip on the Green River and just want to know what the climbing is like. I've seen Unearthed with Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk, and Daniel Woods, and I'm looking to do something similar to that, except climb some 5.10s and 5.11s, instead of 5.13s.

Does anybody know if this is possible, or know of a better place for a rafting/climbing trip?

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Their trip is in the Labyrinth Canyon section of the Green River. I don't know about any of the routes back there, but there is 68 miles of Windgate cliffs from Green River State Park to Mineral Bottom so there have to be hundreds of 5.10 and easier route potential.

There is climbing off of Ruby-Horsethief and Westwater on the Colorado as well. Ruby Horsethief is a 27 mile float and Westwater is 17 miles with class III and depending on water level class IV whitewater.

All of these trips require permits, the only one that is not free is Westwater. Do not attempt Westwater if you do not have Class IV whitewater skills. I know much more about boating than climbing so that is about the best I can help you.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

There are definitely 5.10 and 5.11 cragging lines in Labyrinth. I don't know of any published information, but if you see what look likes a nice hand crack there will likely be an anchor at the top of it.

Mee Canyon along Ruby/Horsethief has a few nice 5.10s. Drinking with Gambino and Nerve Endings are both fun cragging lines close to the river. Tail Wagger only has a few moves of 5.11 that you can easily enough french free.

Piton Ron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

Andrew, I doubt that the "Lab" is that thoroughly climbed out.

I've been climbing by boat there for well over 30 years. The Lab is the best stretch of the Green for climbing, but by no means the only one.
I saw some attractive lines in Deso, and the Gates of Lodore offer some huge lines as well.

In the early '80s I bagged Horsethief Tower just downstream from Mineral bottom (this is a fine 5.10 climb), and I began to see the enormous potential of this canyon system.

Perhaps the coolest area is the Bowknot group. This was misleadingly labeled by Bjornstad as the "Green River Towers", as there are towers all along the Green's hundreds of miles.

I bagged the nicest of those towers on my third trip trip to attempt them, the first 2 being foiled by terrible wind storms that resulted in epics. When Dave Mondeau and I succeeded we named the rock Abbey Tower in honor of Cactus Ed, who had just died.

Unfortunately the news this week was that there is a sheen from an oil spill 60 miles up canyon right there at Bowknot Bend, the first time I ever saw the area mentioned on local tv.

I didn't know you needed a permit to run the Green through the Lab. Is this new?

My tactic for soloing was to put in at Mineral and motor upstream and float back thereby obviating the need for a shuttle.

The Lab is definitely out on the frontier when it comes to Wingate. So you better have your self-rescue skills down.

Good luck and good hunting BUT DON'T PUBLISH!

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

The rock in Deso is surprisingly cool. The Green River formation takes a ton of large block trundling to clean, but climbs reasonably well once the surface choss is gone. The Wasatch formation is great - it climbs like Red Rocks. We put up Shake Wait and it is a gem, though the approach from the river is formidable. Definitely a high adventure area though.

There is still no permit for Labyrinth, and even Cataract is basically just a call in. Too bad about the fixed anchor ban in Canyonlands, or Stillwater Canyon would be an amazing climbing area.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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