"Is Our Children Learning?" 

Furthest right route on The Eiger. This route is just OK and might improve as it cleans up from traffic. It is a full 35 meters. Once again gear was stolen off the route during cleaning. I can't believe that climbers would steal from the guy who is spending all the money to give them access to new routes! Whoever you are you SUCK!

Hey T,
What was stolen? I really enjoy your routes...maybe we can get a collection together to replace the shit that was stolen.

I would support Kevin's suggestion...I just went there for the first time last week and had a blast...love the long routes....
Thanks for doing all the hard work.

Be careful of some loose rock on the upper half of this climb. Climbing in CC got me out of the habit of checking holds before weighting them and took an unexpected little fall on this one, approx 10 pound block came loose. Fortunately my belayer heard me yell rock and got out of the way in time, otherwise it would have been much worse.

One 60meter rope will not get you down. You need two ropes.

The opening jug moved when I cranked off it. If this rips off it will likely hit your belayer, just take note. Pretty good route that will be even better once it cleans up more.

I think this route should have a belayer bolt. If the leader falls before clipping the 1st bolt, it is likely you both are taking a ride down to US-6.

Stick clip.

Mono beat me to it.

Ah, jeez guys, what about all the parties who show up at sport crags without stick clips? I think Randy is suggesting a solution to keep a few blokes from tumbling onto US 6. Seems pretty minimal to me.

Bolt the planet for all I care, just offering another option.

And since you mentioned it, going sport climbing without a stick clip is like starting up the Nose without aiders. You can do it, but why would you?

What do you guys think about continuing to the right with more new routes starting off the ledge and using belayer bolts? I am worried about rockfall onto the road, and it's the only thing that stops me. I still see some decent looking lines on solid looking rock...Thor

Great route, Kieser. You did a great job bolting it, every bolt was well placed (not too many like that 5.8 at the Canal Zone)! To me, this route was pure fun and nowhere near 10a, IMHO. I felt the first bolt was very easy to reach, no need for a stick clip, but I guess if your worried about it bring one...no harm in that.

A 70m will just barely get you to the ground.

There is definitely some shrubbery and gardening involved in climbing this thing, but it was a fun and LONG route.

This is a nice 5.9. The loose BOULDER that Kevin mentioned on 4/19/2010 is still there and something you should be aware of. Also, some of the ledges in the upper 2/3's of the climb have loose rock and debris on them. Belayer may want a helmet. I would also recommend a 70m rope and plenty of gear, this is a fun long climb.

Agree about potential of both climber and belayer tumbling onto the highway. One can place cams (0.5 -0.75) in the horizontal crack before the first bolt, and tie a 15' piece of rope (or the end of your 2nd rope) to them for the belayer, and first piece for the leader if desired, then back clean to avoid rope drag. Ditto re: some loose rock that will go down to the highway.

If you don't want to drag another rope up, you can tie one to the end of the first one and have the leader haul it up.

But really guys, putting anchors over 30 meters (in this case over 35 meters) is NOT worth the potential for someone getting lowered off the end of the rope and killed. You'll feel different when it happens eventually, and it will. It happened at Cat Slab.

Stich: Are you suggesting that developers are responsible for climbers' safety?

Or that just in this particular case an extra 5 meters of 5.9 wasn't worth the increased risk?

Stich, 70 meter ropes are pretty standard nowadays. Using your logic, nothing over 80 feet would be bolted, because that's the most you can handle with a 50 meter rope.

A really fun route, a little dirty in places but otherwise a lot of fun. I thought the bolt placement higher up added just the right amount of spice.