Right at the VERY beginning is a deceiving move off the deck that looks easy and then is hard to get your feet up high to the holds. After the original boulder move the route is actually VERY good following some small flakes and face holds. Good route!
At a funky grey colored bolt and hanger around the arete from Stew on This. Pull the bulge, then follow the thin seam just left of the arete.
A couple of bolts and some helpful small gear placements. Shares anchors with Stew on This for your rappel.
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Mar 2, 2007
Be solid at the grade; like most gear routes on this cliff, a hard fall might pull the whole climb down. Worth doing once.
Nov 1, 2010
On 1 November 2010, the LVCLC, with hardware from ASCA, who makes all things possible, replaced the anchor and the pro bolt on this route with 1/2 x 2.75" Stainless. The pro bolt was moved left about 2' due to rock quality concerns. ie, the original 1.75" bolt was in a hollow flake. Typical.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Slightly tricky pro above the initial bolt. Sort of a one move wonder climb - the bottom move is very fun; the rest of the climb is very easy up to the anchor. I managed to get a cam in above the initial hard move (metolius #00) and a nut in the crack system above. The bolt at the bottom is solid.
|By Alex Rogers|
From: Sydney, Australia
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
I seconded this - its pretty strenuous off the deck, wasn't sure whether to belay or spot my leader on this. Pro is quite tenuous above the crux, but difficulty drops off considerably - as Nelson says, the difficulty is one move.
|By Homer Patterson|
Oct 25, 2013
I placed a tricam in a small hueco at the bottom of the vertical section. One bolt on the route protects the first move well (as I proved several times!) Didn't find a quality placement for the last move (off the small ledge) but didn't really think it was necessary. A fun lead. The business is definitely getting off the ground.