Is It Ready Yet...Moe 

Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here.

Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds so I had to be inventive.

I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt)

The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on it's grade.

Still some loose rock on this one so keep your belayer aware.

Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World.

IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards.

The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit.

A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt.

If it has rained recently, this route will be soaked.

Fun moves coming around the two corners.

Seems awfully contrived (and wrongheaded) to move OUT of the dihedral/crack at the first bolt, just to rejoin it ten feet later before sending the upper sections. Leave it to Boulder....

At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear.

Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes....

If you read the first comment (done 1 month after the first ascent), Paul climbed the corner "though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring". When this route was first done in Feb. 2008, the crack was full of water and ice, hence we bolted the clean dry rock on the left. We came back in April and cleaned the corner to produce the trad route "We Don't Do Crack". The moves following the bolts left are technically more difficult. You can climb the route any way you want.

Climbed it today and loved it! The route does look kind of funky from the ground. It has cleaned up very nicely. Clip the first bolt and move out left to the arete. IMHO the crux comes after the very long reach (I'm 5'9") to clip the 5th bolt. The thin finger holds push me to give it 10a. The moves out left at the top are spacey and cool. Looks like a harder variation going straight up and over the corner. Thanks, Greg.

This route is pretty cool IMHO. I'm surprised to see it on here as 10a though, given that the BoCan guidebook by D'antonio calls it 9+, and I'd agree with that. I started up the crack and thought it was fun. Definitely a little tricky in spots, but I wouldn't say the climbing is 10a. Kind of creepy on lead (especially because from the 5th or so bolt, you can't see the next bolt), but if you trust your technique, you should be solid. Creepiest part is coming out onto the face near the anchors, but the hands and feet are all there. I'd recommend doing it if you're in the area.

Just barely a one star route. Luckily there is just enough ok climbing to make up for the contrived climbing, sections of low quality rock, and the lame, hidden 5th bolt.