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is 5.8 really that much easier than 5.10
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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 2, 2012
I realize this sounds stupid but on several occasions and this is mostly in sport climbing I get on a route that is a 5.8 and there is one super comitting move where I am all WTF this is 5.8 right. Realizing that 5.10 is harder because it is usally more sustained blah blah blah but am I really weird or is this common.

I can't wait for the spray this is going to create. And yes I can lead 5.10 trad and sport on a semi consistent basis and have never fallen on a 5.8

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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Mar 2, 2012
Mt. Agassiz
Yes. Or, no. Maybe? Wait, what?

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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Mar 2, 2012
25' drop...wheeeeee!
Since the rating system is totally subjective and everyone climbs differently there will absolutely be 5.8's that feel harder to you than some 5.10's.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Mar 2, 2012
Colonel Mustard
If grade discrepancies disturb you, I would caution you to never take up trad climbing.

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Mar 2, 2012
At the BRC
If I choose my sequence properly, I can turn almost any 5.8 into a 5.12.
Mark

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By ian watson
From Albuquerque, NM
Mar 2, 2012
Mark E Dixon wrote:
If I choose my sequence properly, I can turn almost any 5.8 into a 5.12. Mark



your route finding seems to be on par with mine.

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By Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Mar 2, 2012
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag
I'd say that yes, normally there is a big difference between the grades. However, just a few days ago I climbed a 5.7 that felt harder than a 5.9 that was literally 10 feet away. I think sometimes a certain type of move just feels hard for me because I don't get to practice it that often, so it can make the grade feel more difficult.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 2, 2012
OTL
and 5.9+ is harder than 5.11-



disclaimer: (not that I lead 11s or .9+)



oh and then there's the '5.5 awkward' or '5.7 polished'

not to mention 5.9OW



Okay, seriously now. When a 5.8 sport route feels too hard, I run it again on TR and it makes such a big difference. Leading is still very mental for me and a TR cushion allows you to find the 5.8 sequence you missed b/c you were freaking out on lead.

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 2, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Oh yeah.... for sure...... just hop on the Oomph slot in Boulder Canyon..... a classic 5.8

:-)

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By GabeO
From Denver, CO
Mar 2, 2012
Well if the difficulty of the moves is not the issue, but the commitment is, then yeah - 5.8 and 5.10 can feel nearly the same. Or if the 5.10 has no tricky committing moves, it can feel easier.

Been there.

Go do the "5.7" original finish to the Yellow Spur. 40 feet of unprotected balancy technical climbing with the crux move at the end just before you get some gear. That final move is probably only 5.8+, but I've literally done 5.11 moves that "felt" easier. Of course it's quite possible that I did the sequence wrong (twice).

GO

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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Mar 2, 2012
Kilroy
Matt N wrote:
and 5.9+ is harder than 5.11- disclaimer: (not that I lead 11s or .9+)

marshalls madness. thats all i'll say hahaha

BE AFRAID OF THE +

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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Mar 2, 2012
Me and Spearhead
Just another thought:
A lot of the time when you're climbing well below your limit your brain doesn't treat it the same as when you knowingly jump on something at your on-sight level.
You don't get nearly as psyched up for the cruiser route because you "know" you'll hike it... then inevitably you'll hit a few moves that demand your attention and all of a sudden it feels much harder than it should for the grade.

I know a lot of times I climb with better footwork, make better decisions and use better tactics when I'm on something that's hard for me precisely because it demands my full concentration.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Mar 2, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
5.8's and 9's at Devils Lake often climb like real-friction world 5.10's. Sandbagged for sure there alot.

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By germsauce
Mar 2, 2012
Hippos kill people
if you have trouble telling the difference between 5.8 and 5.10 you should probably go hop on a 5.13, sounds like maybe you have superhuman strength and ability that has only been suppressed by societal norms of grades and other bullshit.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Mar 2, 2012
Bucky
Old Custer wrote:
If grade discrepancies disturb you, I would caution you to never take up trad climbing.


Now that's funny. I agree though. What do you think, does 5.9 "wide" equal about 5.11d sport? Or maybe 5.9R slab equals about 5.12a sport? Seems about right eh?

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By Mark Mueller
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2012
Great quality rock on this one!
I feel like you knew the answer to your question before you posted it

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By SeaJellie
From Ann Arbor, MI
Mar 2, 2012
Adrift on the oceans.
You obviously onsite 5.11c.

The climbing scale is logarithmic, as someone pointed out long before me.

When you're nearing your limit, each letter represents a bigger and bigger gap in difficulty.

At grades far below your limit, it all blurs together.

So, what you really should have been saying was on the 5.10, feck, this feels like 5.8!

Of course, this is why so many moderate climbs at newer sport areas have funky grades.

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By S Denny
From Prescott, AZ
Mar 2, 2012
5.8 is really that much easier than 5.10

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By Tea
Mar 2, 2012
just Jong it!
It's actually two grades easier...but honestly...a lot of under 5.10 routes can be "easier"...but have one of those weird, funky, thrutchy, howthehelldoyouratethat? kinda moves.

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 3, 2012
Halarious
I figured that's what ppl would say
And I mostly trad climb and I feel that trad grades are generally more consistent than limestone sport.
But I think I am not good on limestone for the most part. However on that same note I agreenthat 1960 to say 1970 5.9+ is way harder than most moder 10b/c

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 3, 2012
And u r correct I already knew the answer but I didn't c a way this would turn into a dum ethics debate and I was curious if I was the only person that can insight 5.10 and the ocasional 11 and still get on a 5.8 and say WTF
Thus far I think I am not that odd cuz many ppl agree that it happens and it did not turn into an ethics debate so hell yes
Thread success

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By Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Mar 3, 2012
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
There are three places in the united states where 5.8 is no joke...Index, the Adirondacks, and Joshua Tree...I'd also consider the Gunks, though climbing juggy roofs does not necessarily equate to sandbagged.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Mar 3, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Chris Duca wrote:
There are three places in the united states where 5.8 is no joke...Index, the Adirondacks, and Joshua Tree...I'd also consider the Gunks, though climbing juggy roofs does not necessarily equate to sandbagged.

Agree with the Gunks evaluation. Have often heard of those 5.11+ overhanging face climb sporties who are lost with a Gunks crack and roof climb.

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By iClimb5fun
From Santa Clara, UT
Mar 3, 2012
5.10b Crawdad Canyon, Veyo, UT
Old Custer wrote:
If grade discrepancies disturb you, I would caution you to never take up trad climbing.


hahaha, too true man, too true. I know what you're talking about, to me it seems like a mental thing, if you're clippin and rippin for eighty feet then you get to one committing 5.8ish move, its not really any harder than 5.8, it just seems harder because you just climbed eighty feet of really easy climbing.

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Mar 3, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
martinharris wrote:
I can't wait for the spray this is going to create. And yes I can lead 5.10 trad and sport on a semi consistent basis and have never fallen on a 5.8

OK, so you can lead 5.10 "semi consistently," and have "never fallen on a 5.8," and you want to know if the grade is different? I think you answered your own question.
But there are hard 8's and easy 10's that confuse the issue. IE if you were climbing in Boulder Canyon and flashed all the 10b sport climbs put up since 2006, you might still find the 1970's consensus 5.8's a little difficult.

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By bearbreeder
Mar 3, 2012
offwidth ....

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