I realize this sounds stupid but on several occasions and this is mostly in sport climbing I get on a route that is a 5.8 and there is one super comitting move where I am all WTF this is 5.8 right. Realizing that 5.10 is harder because it is usally more sustained blah blah blah but am I really weird or is this common.

I can't wait for the spray this is going to create. And yes I can lead 5.10 trad and sport on a semi consistent basis and have never fallen on a 5.8

Yes. Or, no. Maybe? Wait, what?

Yes

Since the rating system is totally subjective and everyone climbs differently there will absolutely be 5.8's that feel harder to you than some 5.10's.

If grade discrepancies disturb you, I would caution you to never take up trad climbing.

JesseT hit the nail on the head. Grades are subjective. Some people excel at juggy overhanging shit. Some people excel at slab. Some people excel at balancy, crimpy, nonsense. Guess which type of route isn't my favorite? Then when you factor in height, the developer, blah blah blah, it makes it all even more subjective. If a guy that is six ft three puts up a route, it's gonna be a little reachy to someone 5'6", thus the grade will feel sandbagged. Take it as it comes. Use grades as a general guide to find stuff (close to your limit, a little above, below, etc.), and then choose a line that makes you tick and looks aesthetic to you. If you've never fallen on a 5.8, you're way ahead of me. I've done .8s that I can't stop doing, and I've done .8s that I fall one time on at the first crux, get lowered, and say fuck that piece of shit and never get back on. It's all relative.

If I choose my sequence properly, I can turn almost any 5.8 into a 5.12.
Mark

Hahaha. True. I don't like that I can relate to this, but I can.

I'd say that yes, normally there is a big difference between the grades. However, just a few days ago I climbed a 5.7 that felt harder than a 5.9 that was literally 10 feet away. I think sometimes a certain type of move just feels hard for me because I don't get to practice it that often, so it can make the grade feel more difficult.

and 5.9+ is harder than 5.11-



disclaimer: (not that I lead 11s or .9+)



oh and then there's the '5.5 awkward' or '5.7 polished'

not to mention 5.9OW



Okay, seriously now. When a 5.8 sport route feels too hard, I run it again on TR and it makes such a big difference. Leading is still very mental for me and a TR cushion allows you to find the 5.8 sequence you missed b/c you were freaking out on lead.

Oh yeah.... for sure...... just hop on the Oomph slot in Boulder Canyon..... a classic 5.8

:-)

Well if the difficulty of the moves is not the issue, but the commitment is, then yeah - 5.8 and 5.10 can feel nearly the same. Or if the 5.10 has no tricky committing moves, it can feel easier.

Been there.

Go do the "5.7" original finish to the Yellow Spur. 40 feet of unprotected balancy technical climbing with the crux move at the end just before you get some gear. That final move is probably only 5.8+, but I've literally done 5.11 moves that "felt" easier. Of course it's quite possible that I did the sequence wrong (twice).

GO

Just another thought:
A lot of the time when you're climbing well below your limit your brain doesn't treat it the same as when you knowingly jump on something at your on-sight level.
You don't get nearly as psyched up for the cruiser route because you "know" you'll hike it... then inevitably you'll hit a few moves that demand your attention and all of a sudden it feels much harder than it should for the grade.

I know a lot of times I climb with better footwork, make better decisions and use better tactics when I'm on something that's hard for me precisely because it demands my full concentration.

5.8's and 9's at Devils Lake often climb like real-friction world 5.10's. Sandbagged for sure there alot.

if you have trouble telling the difference between 5.8 and 5.10 you should probably go hop on a 5.13, sounds like maybe you have superhuman strength and ability that has only been suppressed by societal norms of grades and other bullshit.

I feel like you knew the answer to your question before you posted it

You obviously onsite 5.11c.

The climbing scale is logarithmic, as someone pointed out long before me.

When you're nearing your limit, each letter represents a bigger and bigger gap in difficulty.

At grades far below your limit, it all blurs together.

So, what you really should have been saying was on the 5.10, feck, this feels like 5.8!

Of course, this is why so many moderate climbs at newer sport areas have funky grades.

5.8 is really that much easier than 5.10

It's actually two grades easier...but honestly...a lot of under 5.10 routes can be "easier"...but have one of those weird, funky, thrutchy, howthehelldoyouratethat? kinda moves.

Halarious
I figured that's what ppl would say
And I mostly trad climb and I feel that trad grades are generally more consistent than limestone sport.
But I think I am not good on limestone for the most part. However on that same note I agreenthat 1960 to say 1970 5.9+ is way harder than most moder 10b/c

And u r correct I already knew the answer but I didn't c a way this would turn into a dum ethics debate and I was curious if I was the only person that can insight 5.10 and the ocasional 11 and still get on a 5.8 and say WTF
Thus far I think I am not that odd cuz many ppl agree that it happens and it did not turn into an ethics debate so hell yes
Thread success

There are three places in the united states where 5.8 is no joke...Index, the Adirondacks, and Joshua Tree...I'd also consider the Gunks, though climbing juggy roofs does not necessarily equate to sandbagged.