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Iron Mountain

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Land Of The Way Too High Boulders, The 
Rubiks Ridge 
Rubrick's Ridge boulders 
Sledgehammer 
Turtle Dome 
Turtle Dome Boulders 
WoodPecker Protrusion Boulders 

Iron Mountain Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 26, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: 1-Rubiks Ridge 2-WoodPecker 3-Sledgehammer 4-Worl...

Description 

Iron Mountain is a good place to go to escape crowds. There are several routes here (tend to be short), most of which are face climbing. Also, this is a good destination for fun granite bouldering. In fact, there is enough bouldering here to warrant leaving the rope at home. This is the second largest concentration of established granite bouldering in the Black Hills. Expect high quality granite problems that range from short to unrepeated your gonna die highballs. The well known climber, Bob Murray left his mark here with a few classic problems worth checking out.

Getting There 

From Keystone, drive towards Mt. Rushmore on highway 16a. Take a left on 16a when the road junctions with 244. Measure from here, and drive 3.1 miles and park. This spot is where a non-major paved road intersects with the main highway on its right. This intersection is about 1/4 mile after driving through the second tunnel. There is no official parking, so just squeeze on the shoulder.

There are two major areas here. The first is a short jaunt across the road to the east. Find a trail that heads steeply up the hill and quickly arrive at Rubik's Ridge. Identify this by the overhanging schist at the bottom of the cliff.

The main area involves walking diagonally away from the intersection to the southwest on a faint trail. Although this trail is often difficult to follow, if you continue in that direction you will find the area. Head up a hill on to slabby rocks, then at the top you will get to a viewpoint where you can see Turtle Rock to the left. Turtle Rock can be identified by its large slabby 3rd class rock on its north side. Hike down to this to find the main rocks and bouldering.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

86 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',8],['5.12',2],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',12],['V2-3',28],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Iron Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Iron Mountain:
Jury of Peers   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   Turtle Dome Boulders : The Test Piece
Kevin's Influences   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rubiks Ridge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Iron Mountain

Featured Route For Iron Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Ticks show route

Knife In A Gun Fight V8 7B  SD : Iron Mountain : ... : Overly Hung Boulder
Knife In A Gun Fight was made famous in the movie Friction Addiction : Black Hills Gold. Chuck Fryberger put up the first ascent and many still talk about his static dyno to the top. Start to the left corner holds are good. move up and then traverse over to the huge hold in the middle of the boulder. From here match your feet to gain upward progress. Hanging on tiny crystals towards the top dyno to the top. Top hold is good if caught right....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

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