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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes.
p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a belay in the corner. Save some .75" to 1.5" pieces for the belay.
p2 11-. Do a hard, leftward hand traverse off the belay to some easier climbing up and left into a big right facing corner. Climb the steep hand and fist crack to a ledge. Save some 3 camalot size pieces for the belay.
p3 12-. Originally was protected by 3 pitons, they have since fallen out and the pitch is now protected by 2 bolts (retro bolted with First Ascensionists permission!). Short but hard, go straight up, then around the summit block to the right and finish via Lonely Vigil.
Remember you have to downclimb the summit! No rap anchors on top! Rap down the backside and then rap the notch towards the road and your packs.
On the road side of Lighthouse Tower, right of Posiedon Adventure.
A big desert tower rack. About 2 to 3 sets of cams from micro to fist sizes. Bring at least 3 #3, and 2 #4(new) camalot pieces if you don't like big hand and fist cracks. You need at least one for the belay atop pitch 2.
Looking up at Iron Maiden.
BETA PHOTO: Don't let the shadow fool you this traverse is not...
Wyatt Payne taken by Aaron Williamson.
By Ari Menitove
Oct 17, 2007
Awesome route! You can do the tricky 5.10+/11- on P1 with decent (but thin) pro at your knees if you put a #2 stopper (or thereabouts) in a pin scar.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2013
Getting to the alternate anchor on P1, a blue/yellow offset master cam was perfect for protection. getting past the bolt above and into the horizontal seam was reachy for me, but my parter at 5' 2" was able to pull it off with more stemming. The hand traverse back after the next belay stance above was no gimme.