Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Andy Johnson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Handsome B. Wonderful on May 16, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof on the southeast face of John's Tower. The name is derived from the sharpness of the rock. Iron Maiden refers not to the band, but to the medieval torture device. (See the legend of sleepy hollow with Johnny Depp. An Iron Maiden is how his mom gets killed). Anyway, the moves on this route are fantastic! You start in the alcove and work your way out a 10-12' roof. As usual getting around the bulge is the hardest part. I have done Lucille, and I thought this was harder. Although Lucille is an overall much better climb. If you can do this climb, then Lucille should be no problem. While I was on IM, I couldn't help but think how incredibly similar the two climbs felt. Wear a thick shirt.

Location 

Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof about 30' climber's left of Roofin' It. In the Kelman guide, you can see a shady alcove on the corner of the southeast formation. IM is the right hand, right-arcing crack.

Protection 

A hand sized piece and a few #6 Friends are all you will need. There are no anchors on top, but you can walk off or find one of the many anchors on top and rap off.