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John's Tower
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In the Flat Field 
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive 
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Married On Morphine 
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Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andy Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,362
Submitted By: Handsome B. Wonderful on May 16, 2008
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Description 

Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof on the southeast face of John's Tower. The name is derived from the sharpness of the rock. Iron Maiden refers not to the band, but to the medieval torture device. (See the legend of sleepy hollow with Johnny Depp. An Iron Maiden is how his mom gets killed). Anyway, the moves on this route are fantastic! You start in the alcove and work your way out a 10-12' roof. As usual getting around the bulge is the hardest part. I have done Lucille, and I thought this was harder. Although Lucille is an overall much better climb. If you can do this climb, then Lucille should be no problem. While I was on IM, I couldn't help but think how incredibly similar the two climbs felt. Wear a thick shirt.


Location 

Iron Maiden is a big offwidth roof about 30' climber's left of Roofin' It. In the Kelman guide, you can see a shady alcove on the corner of the southeast formation. IM is the right hand, right-arcing crack.


Protection 

A hand-sized piece and a few #6 Friends are all you will need. There are no anchors on top, but you can walk off or find one of the many anchors on top and rap off.



Comments on Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive Add Comment
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By Wade Griffith
Jun 9, 2008

I liked the route name better when I was thinkin bout the band. Bummer, Iron Maiden used to rock! I remember scopin those roof routes a while back and thinking they looked cool. Glad it finally has been done.

By Handsome B. Wonderful
Jun 16, 2008

Wade, you'll like the name even more after you get on the route. It has cool moves, but super sharp rock. It feels like thousands of nails digging into your chest and back. The perfect route for a true Vedauwoo pain-o-phile.

By OW Poser
Jun 26, 2008

Very nice Andy....a great route!!!!!

By Shanti
Jun 6, 2011

Hey Andy, super cool route! The pivot was quite a bloody battle for me. AWESOME!!!

By Patrick Kingsbury
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a



Awesome route!!!