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This route is mostly 5.10+, but the crux 12 ft or so above the bolt is a stiff .12 move, with really runout 5.10+ above. After the crux you have some 5.11 but mostly its really constant 5.10, and super runout.
To find this route walk up like you are going to Fourplay and keep heading up towards Nick of Time, Jugs, ect. On your way you will see the Outer Outlet and if you're looking you will see a 8ft wide black streak on the left side, this is the route. Start climbing up the chimney /gully which leads you to Jugs and Nick of Time, just after you start the gully climb, first step, you should be under Iron Lingerie. Don't confuse this route with the project to the right. Notice the nice boulder in the main gully just before you start to go up, its a good landmark.
Bolts plus some small gear and hand size pieces.
To get to the first bolt you can get some gear in just before. After the first bolt is clipped you mostly clip bolts except for one pin. After you clip the last bolt and just below the anchor you can get some small hand size pieces in which are good.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jul 21, 2015
One of my favorite sections of any climbing movie is the segment of Curt climbing this in Friction Addiction. Classic!