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|Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>|
Really fun route, and one of the easiest of the "main area" climbs at the Jailhouse. Start on a pillar just to the left of a bush with red flowers that lives about ten feet up the wall. The crux is a short but bouldery sequence around the fifth bolt. Sustained climbing through three more bulges gets you to the anchors. Most of the holds are jugs, but there are a few tricky moves mixed in here and there.
A good route to help build the endurance and knee-barring proficiency that are critical on the harder routes at the Jailhouse.
About fifty feet left of where the approach trail intersects the wall. Look for a bush with small red flowers about ten feet up the wall. This climb is just its the left.
Fixed draws to chain anchors
By Alex Shainman
Nov 24, 2013
Heads up as of 11/22/13:
The 4th to last bolt's nut is spinning off AND both the 3rd & 2nd to last fixed quicklinks (on the hangers) have unscrewed all the way and apparently have been loaded enough while open to bend and could not be finger-tightened...we did not have any tools that day.
On a good note, none of the multiple super hollow big blocks fell out on us. The starting hold at the beginning of the overhang, where a brick recently broke, is rather crunchy. Iron Junkie haha classic!