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Iron Horse Wall
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Iron Horse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Renner
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Oct 23, 2006

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Larsen on Iron Horse

Description 

This route has shut down many 5.12 climbers. Start on the left side of the main wall and climb up decent pockets to the first bolt. Things get tricky from there. A notoriously difficult crux follows with a strenuous gaston section followed by big reaches to some small crimpers. The climbing stays continous and technical up to the bulge. At the base of the big, black bulge head up and right through the steep section, clipping a couple bolts before joining the finish of the Monorail.
Fun, long and involved route.

Protection 

10 bolts, closed cold shut anchors.


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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 23, 2010

12 a or b seems OK to me. Great route with an interesting variety of moves & a cool resting mono. The start seemed to wander left then back to the bolts here and there, at least on the chalked up holds. The upper jug haul was a blast too.