This is the double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express. This route is listed as S/VS or something in the Rossiter book, but it's actually very protectable at the cruxes, and you're not in any danger of grounding/ledging out anywhere on the route. A nice, if not very sustained line. It is probably easier than the 11+ given by Rossiter, especially if you're tall.
A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.
Excellent face moves and an easy toprope from the rap anchors atop P1 Pony Express. Somewhere around 5.11c climbing. 4 and 5 RPs also help if leading. The gear placements are tapered and solid, but small, so placing gear provides a satisfactory tinkering experience, and all the tiny wired nuts look cool clipped into the rope.
I agree with David. The top of this pitch may be [relatively] easy (One 5.9 move) but gear is way below you and pretty thin to boot. [Definitely] should have an S rating.
By Joe Collins Nov 10, 2003 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?).
By Shane DeMars From: Boulder, Colorado Jun 15, 2004 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Feb 2, 2006 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
Not really crack climbing, not really 11d, and not very R. Also not that great of a climb. It is fun, but not a classic. The second runout up top is just one committing move onto a high foot. 5.9 or maybe 5.10a, but not as hard as most 5.9+ moves (wink).
This route is a blast.... However, I don't think it's an 11+....
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Mar 6, 2010 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c R
Not quite up to "classic" standard, but really fun, my vote is 11b, not much pro (and at points you'd have to choose between pro and plugging up a finger jam--bring small stoppers/RPs), potential ground-fall or ledge-fall in some places.
By Rainbowweinstock From: Boulder, CO Feb 15, 2011 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c PG13
Beautiful crux. After doing it many times on TR and sussing out all the gear, I found that there are quite a few solid placements for the lead. One piece of note is that after the crux, before the 5.9 slab, you can get a very bomber #0.5 Camalot on the left side of the rest ledge. The piece is placed straight down into the ledge, so it is a bit odd, but it should hold a fall if you blow it getting to the anchors (which really isn't that big of deal after dealing with the rest of the route).
By martinharris From: Glenwood Springs CO Nov 25, 2011 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-24E4 6a PG13
I just top roped ,but it seams if you plugged gear at the crux, you would loose your finger locks witch were already thin to say the least. But either way, so killer and desperate for me.
By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Nov 25, 2011 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
You can get a couple #5/6 offsets/RPs before you commit, and they don't take up the finger locks. I have never stopped to placed small cams in the upper finger locks, though. It is probably better to just continue climbing and not fall at that point.
Fun route. The crux is very well protected as I cut twice and fell onto my nut. Runout up top is not trival. If you can make it through the lower crux, you'll be fine on the runout. If in doubt, TR it first.