|Prune Face Slab
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The left bolted line on the slab, Iron Grit has a fun bolt 1 to 2 sequence that is nice but too short. Otherwise it is still a nice climb as it follows Prune Face's finish.
3 draws for the bolts and 2 .75? camalots for the upper grooves. chains up top.
Mantling on the lone chickenhead.
BETA PHOTO: 2) Iron Grit Variation 3) Iron Grit 4) Prune Fac...
Crux between bolt 1 and bolt 2.
|By Vince Romney|
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The first couple of moves off the starting chicken-head are the crux (although well protected by the first bolt). It eases up shortly after passing the first bolt, but remains engaging until the third bolt, where it rolls into 5.6/5.7. Personally, I think the crux moves are actually a little harder than Cheetah (also rated 5.11a).
From: Small Lake, UT
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
The sequence through the crux has some really interesting movement with some serious friction. The route eases up considerably after the 2nd bolt and makes for a nice cruiser.
The bolts are fairly spaced and the upper runout is really hard to justify on a route that was obviously not bolted on lead. Doesn't matter if it's easy, there are no extra style points for artificially creating a R-rated route on rappel.