This is a fun little spot for day climbs. Easy access from Southeast West Virginia, and Roanoke Virginia area. It's close to the highway (practically on top of it!), but you don't really notice the noise, except for that of the occasional train. Bonus: not crowded.
Description from Eric Horst's, Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland: "Highly fractured, mainly vertical sandstone cliffs with mixed protection and sport climbs up to 90 feet.
Be on the lookout for poison ivy.
South of I-64 about 3 miles on U.S. 220. Turn off on VA 616 and park on the right (GPS coordinates given on map). Hike out to U.S. 220. There is a short, steep access climb closer to parking that is not recommended. Go a little further and you'll see an access trail.
Does anyone have any additional routes, names, grades, photos, descriptions that they could post about the place? I see 2 more routes in the beta picture at least. Looks like a great crag, but I'm sure people would be stoked to see more info if anyone has some. Thanks!
Does anyone know about the status of public access to Iron Gate? I've climbed there several times in the past 9 months or so and have never had any problems, but was told by a local store owner that the land has been (somewhat) recently purchased and is now closed off to the public.
From what I've gathered, the land was actually bought several years ago (2009 I believe?) but apparently the land owner has started having people arrested for trespassing in the past few weeks. The store owner told us that a few people that had been "mushrooming" were arrested within the past two or three weeks and that another local man serves as the caretaker for the land owner and patrols the area somewhat regularly. We spoke with the caretakers wife, who told us she doesn't believe they give permission to climb because of liability.
Does anyone know how accurate this information is? I've been a number of times in the past year and have only ever seen people out there once, but this is apparently a somewhat recent development.
After looking at it more closely, it looks like only a third or so of the crag is actually on private property (Looks like the Gotham City Wall portion) so I think most of the area is okay. Probably worth closer investigation just to be sure though.