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Iron Curtain Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 
Iron Curtain S 
Motley Cruise S 
Mutation S 
One With the Rock S,TR 
Out of Touch S 
Perestroika S 
Pick Pocket S 
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 
Up In a Flash S 

Iron Curtain Wall  


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Page Views: 16,082
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
Forecast:
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66-88°F
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63-94°F
Mon

66-89°F
Tue

64-87°F
Wed

62-96°F
Thu

68-91°F
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Purple rope "Up n a flash" Orange rope &...

Description 

The Iron Curtain Wall has some nice well bolted sport routes on good quartzite and a quick approach, though the interstate noise dims the appeal. Still, this is a good place to go get a quick pump.

Getting There 

Take the 3300 South Exit from I-215, and turn east. Continue through the light at Wasatch Blvd, and then bear left at the first intersection. There is a parking area at the end of the road. From here, walk steeply uphill on a dirt road. Turn left onto a trail towards a distinctive boulder just before a building and cell tower. Head east on a path just before the boulder, and hike down the steep trail to the base of the wall. The Iron Curtain Wall is on the left, and the approach takes about 5-10 minutes from the trailhead.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Iron Curtain Wall:
Up In a Flash   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Out of Touch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Iron Curtain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Perestroika   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
One With the Rock   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Iron Curtain Wall

Featured Route For Iron Curtain Wall
I'm pretty sure this is one with the rock, We did ...

Perestroika 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Iron Curtain Wall
The 4th line of bolts from the right. This touchy climb starts right at a tree, and just off of a left trending weakness. Utilizing sidepulls on this weakness and thin moves towards the bolt will get it clipped. Have a good a spotter (I had 2 and needed both of them) because the 1st clip is tough. The climbing stays tough until you reach the ledge. It then eases up to an almost ridiculous 5.6 level. I was tempted to give it 1 star for this easy section, but the bottom is great and the 5.6 ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Iron Curtain Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Up In a Flash
BETA PHOTO: Up In a Flash
3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise
BETA PHOTO: 3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise
This is my GPS track from the parking lot/trail he...
BETA PHOTO: This is my GPS track from the parking lot/trail he...

Comments on Iron Curtain Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lucas Hunter
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 14, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
We were climbing last night (5/13) and found a pair of shoes and chalk bag. In the interest of keeping the gear out of the elements, I picked them up. Message me if these items belong to you!
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
There is an old lowering rope just west of the main gully that can be used to well... lower down the steep hillside.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 3, 2004
Gear Alert
A lot of the bolts on this wall have spinning hangers. Just, beware of fixed protection always, but especially here!!
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 12, 2006
All the old rusty spinners at this crag need to be replaced... If someone will teach, I will help.
By Steve M Miller
From: Park City, Ut
Jul 30, 2011
  • *WARNING** top right anchor on UP IN A FLASH is a big spinner went to set up the top rope today (with my own gear in the chains) mainly just to rap down so I didn't have to do the hike but ended up hiking down. I did not have and trust in that anchor. just letting people know.
By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
May 28, 2014
Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck.
I went to Iron Curtain wall yesterday, and was really surprised by just how high off the deck all the first bolts are (not to mention that like 50 % are spinners). My partner and I kinda wracked our brains on the reasoning behind this but really couldn't figure it out.
For Example, the climb that most people rap down, to access the crag, is Up in a Flash. The first bolt for this climb is a spinner, somewhere around 15 ft up, and after the crux. Granted the landing area is flat and free of rocks, but thats cold comfort if you pop off clipping the first bolt and your feet are almost 10 ft off the ground.
I really loved the quality of the rock here. It's awesome, textured, pocketed and really fun to climb, but w/o a stick clip, I thought the area kinda sucked.
FWIW, I think of myself as an average climber, I am not especially brave but also not exceptionally cautious either, and I thought that every one of the 5.10a's and below had unnecessarily high first bolts.

I don't wanna turn anyone off to the area itself, It's REALLY fun, kinda like a cross between the slips and Battalion of the Saints, but if your like me and don't find it fun risking your ankles for the first bolt, bring a stick clip!!! The bolting after that seemed great.
By bsmoot
May 31, 2015
"Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck."

OK, the following routes now have a new fist bolt to help protect one from decking.

- Pick-Pocket
- Mutation
- Up in a Flash
- Gotta be tall or else you'll fall
- Iron Curtain
- Out of Touch

26 years ago the ground at the base of these routes was actually 2-3 feet higher. There has been a lot of wearing away and lowering of the soil believe it or not. Even so, the old trad mentality is still prevalent on some of these routes.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Jul 7, 2015
Just saw the new bolts yesterday.... while the new bolts may make the iron curtain a better place for beginners to learn to lead, i am bummed that the old trad mentality is gone (at least in my opinion). While I respect Brian's decision to do this, I will miss the old starts. I liked how much it would challenge ones' mental game, I suppose i can just skip the bolts now. Brian, I always thought the ground must have progressively gotten lower over the years. Thanks for the info and all the work you have put into this little spot.
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