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Iron Butte is an interesting mix of climbs. One can find any thing from vertical and horizontal cracks to face climbing to walls made of blocks. The routes are all short, most can be done in one pitch. After finishing a climb, a top rope can be set up to protect more difficult climbs. There is good mixture of trad and sport routes, so bring your rack, as well as quick draws. On most climbs that reach the top, it is sometimes best to belay just below the top, as lack of protection can be problem at the top. Some of the climbs end at two-bolt anchors and in some cases you can rap off. Besides the named climbs at the butte, there are many short climbs ranging from very easy to extremely difficult, making Iron Butte a great place for beginners and experts alike.
Iron Butte is located about ten miles out of Dayton. To get there go east on Highway 50 from Carson City. The butte is located on the south side of the highway. You can't miss it, it is the long band of dark rock on the butte just as the valley ends. The turn off is at the last road just before the butte and is about seven miles past Dayton State Park. Follow this dirt road until you see another dirt road going up a short steep rise on the left. If you're in a truck or have four-wheel drive, you can take this turn. If you're in a car, it is recommended that you continue further down the road until you are about even with the end of the butte and take the turn to the left (see photo). The last short stretch of road is very rocky and not recommended for vehicles with a low ground clearance.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Iron Butte
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Iron Butte:
Red Beard 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Grip Master 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Iron Butte
Wild Women of the Planet Playtex 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NV : Reno - Carson City : Iron Butte
A 5.9 face climb protected by four bolts for the first part. The crux is the first part of the climb. After the fourth bolt it gets easier. Carry pro for the last part which is 5.7. For a more interesting variation, go right after the fourth bolt and climb Grip Master....[more] Browse More Classics in NV