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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

Irish Spring 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, 1981
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2006

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Pulling through a bulge on Irish. Photo by Jesse ...

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Start down and right of the Huge Boulder against the N/NW face of the Fiddlehead. Ascend up to & past the first bolt of Lucky Charms, clipping it for protection on the way to the arete to the right (West).

    Access the arete and plunk in gear- climbing upward to the crux shortly after a middle-sized cam (1-1.5"?) and then climb the arete to a good ledge. Move left & rap off, or continue up on the second pitch of Leprechaun Promenade (10c) to the summit and a 100+ foot rap. Take a 70m rope or do it in 2 raps.


    This climb ascends the right hand edge of the North Face of the Fiddlehead after accessing it from the left past a single bolt as for Lucky Charms.


    One bolt on Lucky Charms, then gear to 2" in occasional placements up the arete. Flexible SLCDs are a good idea for the horizontals.

    Photos of Irish Spring Slideshow Add Photo
    Chris Parks follows up the Arete of 'Irish Spring (5.9+)' before cutting back left to follow the crack and protection. This fantastic line is on the Fiddlehead, in Fern Canyon and it has several equally great neighbors.
    Chris Parks follows up the Arete of 'Irish Spring ...
    Jesse Ramos working the arete of Irish Spring.
    Jesse Ramos working the arete of Irish Spring.
    Callum lost in intense concentration on the final moves of Irish Spring.
    Callum lost in intense concentration on the final ...

    Comments on Irish Spring Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Haas
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Sep 1, 2008

    Matt Samet and I replaced the single button-head bolt down low on Rip This Joint which is used for this route with a much beefier ASCA stainless bolt. Please support the ASCA if you don't already.