Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
Left of the "Brown Cloud Arete" are three crack systems. These mark the leftmost end of the "Brown Cloud Crags" section of cliff. This route takes the lefthand of these three crack systems up a right-facing corner to the top of the wall. The climbing is moderate and the gear is good, making this a suitable introduction to leading gear routes.
Walk off to the east.
Eds. There is an obvious independent start in the double crack system to the left.
CAUTION: there is a large, loose block at the very top of the climb. It should be trundled, which I would have done, were there not people below. Also, I was unable to retrieve a small cam at the crux crack. Do not clip, as it is not cammed, rather just sitting deep in the crack. A very thin hand might be able to get it out, but not my nut tool.
The route just right of Deck Chairs is Killian's Dead. This route is about 50 feet to the left.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Apr 30, 2013 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
I thought the route was pretty good. It was not recommended in the guidebook but has no real problems. Maybe the bush on the route was thriving when the authors of the book did it. It was not bad at all.
It's not hard to see why this route's rating is low, but it is fun nonetheless.
The crux is the off-width, arm bar and hand jam on opposing sides of a slim, vertical rock protruding from the wall, about ¾ of the way up. We did a slightly different variation to begin - follow the crack just left of the beginning of this route and Axis of Weasels. I used four Camalots, sizes from first to last: 1 (beginning crack), 0.5 (mid-crux), 2 (just shy of the roof), 1 (for the crack to the right of the anchor of Wholly Holey sport route - more of a feel good).
The route is still pretty dirty, with loose rock and gravel aplenty. I will say, it is nice to see almost no sign of chalk on a route in the Brown Clouds!