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 ADVANCED
Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area
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Iranian Arms Deal 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Keith Guillory and David Renberg
Page Views: 627
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008
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Description 

This route is identifiable by a ledge containing (what else) ferns about 15' up. There are two ways to start this route: 1) approach it from directly under the ledge (5.10-ish) or 2) maintaining consistency with the rest of the route, traverse in from the right (near the start of Fern Bar). Either way, you will get some distance before being able to clip the first bolt! For the rest of the route, follow the bolt line through a series of jugs to a sloping top out that, for the 5.8 climber, will have you checking your drawer's!


Location 

The route is located immediately to the left of Fern Bar toward the middle of the wall.


Protection 

3 to 4 bolts plus anchors.



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By Mike Hulse
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Rated a 5.10d in the book just because of the first 15 feet. There is a stout throw to the ledge off of some thin side pulls. After you reach the top you'll have to mantel up and over to get to the chains, this move seems a little sketchy on lead.

By Gilroy
From: Boulderado
Apr 22, 2012

Original start is on Fern Bar. Clip the fist bolt and traverse left to the first bolt on Iranian Arms Deal. More in keeping with the difficulties of the rest of Iranian Arms. The direct start was added later and is hard .10. Other options for the start exist.