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Indian Bluffs

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Bat Attack 
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Indian Bluffs

Submitted By: moss1956 on Oct 8, 2008

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Closed north of Chimney Rock. MORE INFO >>>

Dustin working towards the overhang. No idea wher...


Description 

Bolted limestone, it is a long walk to the rock, but there are some really nice climbs.


Getting There 

Heading North on 151 out of Monticello Iowa, turn right on Richmond, take Richmond Road till it tees out on Butterfield Road, and turn right. Stick with Butterfield Road where you have to turn right at the four way stop to stay on Butterfield and follow it down into the park. There are two parking lots, one right after you enter the park and one down by the river. The top parking lot is closer to most of the bolted climbs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Bluffs:
Spearhead   5.7     Sport, 25 feet   
In Through the Outhole   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Ward off   5.11b     Sport, 60 feet   
Fighting Fish   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch   
El Diablo   5.12b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Indian Bluffs

Photos of Indian Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
Cave frame

Cave frame

Dustin again, another unknown wall name

Dustin again, another unknown wall name

Jonny on unknown route.  Rating, maybe 5.8, location, farthest left side of "Boneless Chicken Wing" wall.

Jonny on unknown route. Rating, maybe 5.8, locati...


Comments on Indian Bluffs Add Comment
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By Langlois
Nov 18, 2008

Hey glad to see more Iowa stuff is going up on MP. Do you have better directions to these places? Are some of these climbs on private land?

By Jim H
Dec 12, 2008

Hey, could you remember to include the nearest city in your directions. Those of us who are not locals would really appreciate it

By moss1956
Feb 27, 2009

Jim H,
I am not sure what you mean, unless you mean to say that Monticello
is not a city.
Moss

By crimpandpeel
Jun 9, 2009

If you do find this park, a good idea is to try and get a guide of some sort or a local to show you the routes to get on and ones not to. there are some pretty fun climbing routes here and you should not have any issues with routes on private land here, but there are routes on PRIVATE land in Iowa. If you happen upon this place, and you will know you are not where you should be, best to turn around and go back the way you came. there are draws hanging on some routes and are not free for the taking-remember it's private property and if caught climbing, you will be walked off the property and into the open arms of the law.

so get a guide book and enjoy the climbing we really need to protect

By Ryan Kane
From: Denver
Jun 11, 2009

Hi crimpandpeel,
Where would one find a guidebook for Indian Bluffs?
Do you live in the area? I'm in Dubuque and would like to see more of Indian Bluffs. Very cool area and I've only seen maybe 1/2 of the routes. I hear there's 30+.
Thanks

By Jon Lauters
From: Longmont, Co
Jul 1, 2009

Hey Ryan,

There is an outdated general guidebook for Eastern Iowa. I have a copy/plus some other material on the area you can have if you like. I'm not sure how useful the guide is, as by the time I came across it, I knew my way around most the places in Iowa. I know IB pretty well, even crimpandpeel's super cool Blue Groove Wall. Sadly I don't have a whole lot of time left in Iowa before I move. IB is much nicer in the fall when the veg dies. There is hunting allowed on the land as well, so during hunting season be sure to wear bright colors - just to be safe.

There are some routes under voluntary closure which should not be climbed (Saving Grace, Wedding Bells, Louise)