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Ionic Strength 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Ron Carson, 1983
Page Views: 1,621
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Back when I wasn't afraid to lead stuff!

Description 

This excellent route climbs the southwest arete of a giant boulder on high-quality stone. Not really a sport route, but reasonably well-protected with technical and balancy moves up an arete that steepens and curves right near the top. A progressive route back when it was first done this is still a worthy tick if in the area.

Protection 

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Ionic Strength Slideshow Add Photo
Randy Leavitt on Ionic Strength.  Bob Horan Collection.
Randy Leavitt on Ionic Strength. Bob Horan Collec...
Ionic Strength ascends the obvious arete on the left (foreground) of the picture.
Ionic Strength ascends the obvious arete on the le...

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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 5, 2003

Short but high quality - 4 out of 5 stars.
By RTM
Feb 25, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Classic arete-style barndoor crux: Hug the arete with the right hand and deadpoint a small edge with the left. Have the belayer pay out a little extra slack to avoid swinging into the arete. A tad heady to the anchors! Some may want to stickclip the 1st bolt.