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Ionic Strength 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Ron Carson, 1983
Page Views: 2,005
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Back when I wasn't afraid to lead stuff!

Description 

This excellent route climbs the southwest arete of a giant boulder on high-quality stone. Not really a sport route, but reasonably well-protected with technical and balancy moves up an arete that steepens and curves right near the top. A progressive route back when it was first done this is still a worthy tick if in the area.

Protection 

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Ionic Strength Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ionic Strength ascends the obvious arete on the le...
Ionic Strength ascends the obvious arete on the le...
Rock Climbing Photo: Graham Pierce making the 3rd ascent of Ionic Stren...
Graham Pierce making the 3rd ascent of Ionic Stren...

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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 5, 2003

Short but high quality - 4 out of 5 stars.
By RTM
Feb 25, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Classic arete-style barndoor crux: Hug the arete with the right hand and deadpoint a small edge with the left. Have the belayer pay out a little extra slack to avoid swinging into the arete. A tad heady to the anchors! Some may want to stickclip the 1st bolt.

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