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The Headstone
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Alienist 
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Io 
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My 
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Io 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Tom Hanson, 1997
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2001
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Description 

Start in the huge, left-facing dihedral at the North end of the Headstone.

P1 (90 feet) runs up on 5.11/5.10 climbing over a system of rounded ledges.

P2 (90 feet) chases toward the top on similar climbing.

Compared to many things on Devil's Head, this route will seem run-out (7-8 draws per pitch), but the feet are good, and all of the clips are from stances, so just stay in tune and ride it up. The rock is very sound, and the moves enjoyable. I thought it was fun. It keeps the shade and can be the only thing climable on the Headstone on a hot day.


Protection 

QDs only. This two pitch route needs only 10 draws and a 60 m rope. Double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch.



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By Kevin Frederick
Aug 12, 2002

This line has good rock and fun moves. It has quite a bit of lichen. I didn't think it detracted that much, but my second found it extremely unpleasant. You can go to the second anchor in one push with a 60m; you don't even need to have your belayer walk up the ramp to the start of the bolts.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Kind of surpised that folks call the rock good. We thought it was kind of mungy. My partner pulled off a good-sized hold as he was getting ready to clip and went for a pretty good ride. I also pulled several holds off. Neither of us are really gorilla tuggers and generally don't break holds.

The crack is kind of weird and was pretty wet when we did it. Lots of damp lichen under the feet. Felt really hard for the grade.

The anchor area is a total mess at this time. It looks like somebody was replacing the anchor and pulled the original bolts about 95% of the way out and left them. One is sticking straight out, about 3 inches. The other one is hammered over. Really odd. We would have pulled them but didn't have any tools with us.