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Southwest Alcove
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Inyerbuttkwa 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Jun 3, 2007

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Crappy picture of the alcove. Alcove 2 in Inyerbut...

Description 

Start off on the broken, overhanging section in the middle of the alcove face. Then transition to face climbing with large and small crimps. Almost all of the holds are good until the last move. This difficult crux slabby move is devious and insecure.

Location 

This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get there, hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routes on it, right after take a sharp left in the alcove. Canít miss it. This route is the second to the right (going left to right).

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts and anchor chains. Shares anchors with route to the right. Helmet isn't a bad idea.


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By Dylan Kuhn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 2, 2007

I think the start is the hard part of this route. I like the way the edges appear as you go. The top move looks intimidating, but felt solid when I finally made myself do it.
By Royce Simpson
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This, the second line from left to right in the Alcove, is very entertaining. The start is a little nervy overhang. Then you get onto a sweet face with solid edges and a couple mono pockets before being confronted with the slabby arete crux.
By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Sep 14, 2010

Really should have a stick clip for the start of this one.
By sasso
From: loveland
Jul 12, 2011

Stick clip is recomended for sure. Tough bouldery start, I only made it to the second bolt with some strangers. Had to bail and left a Freewire draw, so props to the person that claims it.
By kirra998877
From: Steamboat springs
Aug 12, 2011

@ SASSO...I think I have your quickdraw. Send me an email to Kmarsh26@gmail.com if you want it.
By Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 28, 2012

This route was extremely fun to me - it had a little bit of everything. I would definitely suggest stick-clipping the first bolt! The start is an cruxy, overhanging section that leads into solid medium to small crimps on a vertical face. The final slopey arete move is probably the least "secure" but also the most interesting move on the route. I highly suggest it.
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I've done it twice now. The beginning, through the first bolt, is hard and bouldery - stick clip for sure. The second clip is exciting. The rest of it is just plain good stuff with a complete change of pace at the top crux.