|1,129 page views|
Jon Scoville about 2/3 of the way up.
Nice right leaning crack, 3 feet right of the Narcolepsy arete.
Finally got around to doing this route, albeit only on TR. Definitely worth doing while in the Narcolepsy area! Sort of soft for a 10a, but a respectable lead requiring some small gear near the top with ledgefall potential.
First 2/3 is excellent, but the rock quality degrades slightly at the finish.
Crack is 2 inch at the start, thin in the middle and top. Small to micro stoppers, microcams, a couple medium size pieces for the start.
Anchor: 2 somewhat rusty bolts on top (the old Narcolepsy anchor); need long slings and a backup piece or 2 to TR this.
Jon Scoville finding the feet.
|Comments on Involuntary Release
|By Mark Michaels|
From: Draper, UT
Jul 5, 2004
Duh, actually, it's a right leaning crack. IE, the other left.support lexdysia research.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Jul 31, 2005
Great little route, that doesn't see enough traffic. Great gear up to #2 Camalot on the below-roof crack. Popping the roof is the crux, and the gear from here is pumpy to place and far between. I did only use one brass, but I also ran out the upper crack. From the ledge to the top, it degrades with what looks like bad rock, but nothing came off. I am glad I finally decided to give this route a go.
Jun 28, 2010
Highly recommended, starts as a 3-star but finishes poorly. 2.5 stars.
|By Dean Raynes|
From: Midvale, UT
Sep 13, 2010
Definitly still a lot of loose stuff on this one still but a fun, easy 10a. Will get better with a little more traffic. Some new anchors on the face rather then on top would be a nice addition.
Sep 14, 2010
The anchors can be replaced WHERE THEY ARE. No need to change location. And don't argue convenience. Getting a little sick of anchors popping up all over for "convenience".
|By johnny utah|
From: Salt Lake City
May 27, 2012
Great climb on a great crag! Not sure what folks are going on about; there is good gear on this route, albeit small gear. If you are concerned about the anchor placement, figure it out. There is absolutely no reason for any more anchors in that vicinity, there are already FOUR sets of anchors up there within 30ft of each other! It is a traditional route, climb it that way or don't bitch about it. 4-5' of runners set off the existing bolt anchors clear the lip for a TR, problem solved.