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Invisible Idiot 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erikson, Solo, 1978
Page Views: 638
Submitted By: Tony B on May 29, 2003
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Description 

Find this route by going 1/2 way between Curving Crack and Bailey's Overhang. This 'dihedral' as it is refered to is a system that is predominantly hanging 20' above the deck, and the upper part of it and the upper arete/exit moves are visible in the right hand side of the attached picture (which is of Curving Crack). To climb Invisible Idiot, start by stemming and some lie-backs on slopers to reach a good black flake on the left, place a 1" cam or TCU in a so-so placement there (you are already runout on 5.9 moves and placing from a layback/ stem). Place a 1.5" cam up above at the bottom of the hanging dihedral- a wider unit will be poor pro. These are key points of pro and if you take up wider units, will not fit well and will be bad. Now go up into the hanging dihedral on slopes and scoops, getting feet on the left-hand wall. This portion of the climb is reasonably protected. You will reach a spot just below an overhanging headwall, with a dirty and obvious traverse to the right or a less obvious exit up the arete to the left. Place a few good [pieces] a horizontal (2.5" & 3"-3.5" cams, place both) will go in to protect the weird exit moves. Go up the arete a few moves on secure sidepulls and reasonable feet and then to a solid chain anchor above. Descend by threading the [beefy] anchor.

If you TR this, please use 2' slings for the sake of your rope and the links.


Protection 

Runout. The placements that are available are very particular as well. Take two 2.5" friends, a 3-3.5" cam, a few TCU's from tiny to 1.5" + a light set of nuts. One of the 2.5" cams will go 10' up into Bailey's Overhang, 4' to the right, prior to starting if this gives a mental boost you want, but it will be useless at the hard part (don't bother). Up top is a bomber 2-bolt+chain anchor that can be reached from Curving Crack to set a TR if desired.



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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 29, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is fun TR after doing curving crack. I think the stemming moves and liebacks are a kick in the pants!

Would be a serious lead, however. Probably more fun and quicker to do a few laps on TR then to lead it.

I personally think that its pretty stout for a 9.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

After doing this on TR, I wouldn't try to lead it. The gear looks questionable.... Some really fun moves though!