|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Unlike most Gunks routes, this one is harder than it looks.
Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.
P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.
Walk off to the right.
The crux is protected by either a large cam or a small RP. I used the RP but it looked to be about a #4 Camalot.
|By Francis Baker (fran)|
From: Las Vegas,NV
Aug 7, 2006
The crux moves are protected by a fixed pin backed up by a green #0.75 Camalot at your feet. Then there is a small crack on the face under the roof that takes a blue Alien. Look carefully at the photos. Sorry for the poor quality. I did this onsight with at least a dozen people watching. One of the spectators sent me the pics. I think the face moves avoiding the offwidth below are actually the crux. You will scrape the left side of you face doing the liback moves. My glasses still bear the scars!
|By Rodrigo Cid|
Aug 21, 2006
I think this was my first 5.9 on-sight in the Gunks. What a great route! But of course, I'm only 5'7"....
|By Nate Miller|
From: Chicago, IL
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
As far as protection right at the crux, I'm not so sure about a #4 protecting as described in the route description. Maybe a #6 would do it. There is a fixed small nut that I backed up with a #0 C3.
May 11, 2010
This was my first 5.9 onsight ever. And I was as green as green gets for a trad leader back then, and not ready for this route. That fixed nut up in the crux is mine from like 2001. Great route though. I went back and re-led it a few years ago.
|By Steven Cherry|
Jun 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I don't know anyone who uses a large cam, and wouldn't it be in your way, anyway? The blue Alien is very good, and you can also get a black (not as good a placement and of course smaller).
For me, the crux of p2 is harder than the crux of p1.
Nov 7, 2011
I like to start this climb on the far left side of the buttress and diagonal up across to the inverted layback. Hauled my old number 5 camalot up once just to say I used it but it was too small. A 6 might work, or a big bro, if you are determined to practice placing big gear, but not needed since small cams work (albeit in a blind placement). Once I found a small fixed rp someone had worked in half way out the layback. I clipped it and, for the first and only time fell off this crux. It held, but again not needed.